tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22042727517314632522024-02-02T10:43:02.590-08:00Snyders English Ford PartsSnyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.comBlogger35125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-73583107990853091032020-08-19T19:50:00.003-07:002020-08-20T18:51:08.092-07:001600 Automatic Choke Thermal Housing<p>FoMoCo carburetors series: C7BH-9510K, C9BH-9510A/B, 691W-9510VA/YA</p><p>Housing water hose attachments corrode and eventually break off the housing.</p><p>Repair: Cut-off attachments. Drill a 6mm hole .5" deep into the housing then use a M7x10 tap for both holes. Cut two pieces of 1/4" OD copper tubing 1.75" long. Thread each end with a M7x10 die .5" length. ( Reason for metric sizes is that 1/4 x 24 is too small a die for 1/4" copper tubing. )</p><p>Apply epoxy on housing and copper tubing thread. Screw in water hose tubing into housing. Let set over night.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS7l-dW3coMr1qu3tiZ-ar9CqtoJFtMWJgWUnJVz2Sj_g9gnrBX65j-mDwzFyBRMWi6hEz-NTLYWNJHbiJjWulUIsubBFbGtIGrcVXIf21NcbI7pBF5WxkfWr74FFkUwCFdUm21mFjT-lR/s1600/DSCF5068.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS7l-dW3coMr1qu3tiZ-ar9CqtoJFtMWJgWUnJVz2Sj_g9gnrBX65j-mDwzFyBRMWi6hEz-NTLYWNJHbiJjWulUIsubBFbGtIGrcVXIf21NcbI7pBF5WxkfWr74FFkUwCFdUm21mFjT-lR/w320-h240/DSCF5068.JPG" title="Part Number C7AH-9848A" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part Number C7AH-9848A<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2fYNkrQnEHzsuW-ClyyIdmn3xwdxRJ5CuiOc2aOqy9b2lGRb6yHlTa8HxudO_eHsCT1hKXStkvyboI4U2Hclp6wWiuFHmMZkdVPyxf3sUvXvXOVDAv4aN0yMlhUsS-1mRCQbf4-US7sXG/s1600/DSCF5069.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2fYNkrQnEHzsuW-ClyyIdmn3xwdxRJ5CuiOc2aOqy9b2lGRb6yHlTa8HxudO_eHsCT1hKXStkvyboI4U2Hclp6wWiuFHmMZkdVPyxf3sUvXvXOVDAv4aN0yMlhUsS-1mRCQbf4-US7sXG/w320-h240/DSCF5069.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibKdj-HfHwxLG_oas0OfD6WfLWEhuvsJiPRUhRWKd6-d5KaxxCNBVmWOfHsoKZ3RMROVxHI8J__qmm0J30yLjm37H4DhQV3wNkBcLib-m0eGcrypPhBcAd0Or5bPbP3pFk0f6mkQpSP7NU/s1600/DSCF5073.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1OkkHaxHKAFDNj_1G5ADRNqEwEDoAD14ws0jSxjamIDmIH4W5Fu32eRBBjxCp5yScC6oVTW7e03P7QtULC8Jp5kiReWdT_I8r_QjYE_ET_QSSPN5iQkXhr3DhdduwG5kK5flGKpfdCtzi/s1600/DSCF5072.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1OkkHaxHKAFDNj_1G5ADRNqEwEDoAD14ws0jSxjamIDmIH4W5Fu32eRBBjxCp5yScC6oVTW7e03P7QtULC8Jp5kiReWdT_I8r_QjYE_ET_QSSPN5iQkXhr3DhdduwG5kK5flGKpfdCtzi/w320-h240/DSCF5072.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXROJyuPB43VWYDyQeyCLTl7GHyoV3zpfELEK0wD1LDCqjWRjYVlXZ_r-6daygi68A6kN_8lFxLohbaiBAND1mA0OJZ173CyA98vbrcF0l0bM6bJvoefeZyfknkNO9RAuJpRob_rC6II0h/s1600/DSCF5071.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXROJyuPB43VWYDyQeyCLTl7GHyoV3zpfELEK0wD1LDCqjWRjYVlXZ_r-6daygi68A6kN_8lFxLohbaiBAND1mA0OJZ173CyA98vbrcF0l0bM6bJvoefeZyfknkNO9RAuJpRob_rC6II0h/w320-h240/DSCF5071.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-46586771043965183862020-05-07T19:26:00.001-07:002020-05-07T20:04:27.139-07:00Ford Rectangular BadgesType C: Produced by C.E.M. 109E-16070 C for North American models. Mounting pins 5/16" thick.<br />
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Type D: Produced by J Fray Ltd. 109E-16070 D for U.K. / Europe. Mounting pins 1/8" thick.<br />
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Both types are identical and found type D mounted on American models.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii6d2Pnzj_jOOoOYiQ_bz-ql5bwWLI96b73tOfikdh132rqiYGBmMZ584tkrtiQMRiouZ6QhmKAbe9E1y6AZ_xJjNIrxJRvLaxJPhUkfYO4ZsfeYjkKZfDw47paFIk08xI9tzQ8rzNwTfm/s1600/DSCF4963.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii6d2Pnzj_jOOoOYiQ_bz-ql5bwWLI96b73tOfikdh132rqiYGBmMZ584tkrtiQMRiouZ6QhmKAbe9E1y6AZ_xJjNIrxJRvLaxJPhUkfYO4ZsfeYjkKZfDw47paFIk08xI9tzQ8rzNwTfm/s320/DSCF4963.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original bezel plate with removed tag. Modified new tag and unmodified tag.</td></tr>
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Refurbishing Badges:<br />
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New aluminum tags / decals are reproduced by Scott Drake in the U.S. for the American Ford door sill. Decals are of very high quality includes protected plastic covering and sticky backing. He produces two types:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtO1gnzlbMq2Qg9H4Uydp1DlUkRQHU6E3qiY24uAskPlpBTFY1VueZ0L5al0f9FvlVbzxgYLaySw9RsJPn2KLKmfGzX_VDra2x_DfusVZiEzf0P4SZlQyUOGlLh2lT3XiECaS5Mgbi0iq/s1600/DSCF4980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtO1gnzlbMq2Qg9H4Uydp1DlUkRQHU6E3qiY24uAskPlpBTFY1VueZ0L5al0f9FvlVbzxgYLaySw9RsJPn2KLKmfGzX_VDra2x_DfusVZiEzf0P4SZlQyUOGlLh2lT3XiECaS5Mgbi0iq/s320/DSCF4980.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left: C8ZZ-6513208-T for 1966-1973 Fords. Right: C5ZZ-6513208-T for 1964-1966 Fords</td></tr>
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These decals are a bit larger in size to the original decals produced for EnFo. Borders of these decals would need to be cut off to fit the EnFo bezel plates. A wooden jig is fabricated to the size of the inner surface of the bezel plate with a 1/16" deep oval cut-out to give clearance to the embossed Ford emblem. The Drake decal is sandwiched between the two wooden pieces and clamped slightly in vice. I used a sharp wooden chisel to shave off the outer embossed border. I prefer C8ZZ with the smaller Ford logo instead of the C5ZZ lettering where "Product of " is touching the bezel plate border.<br />
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<span style="color: #000120;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-9aEj4cZYMcayIpzCjNwLoiGGENAanZga7ri5q_ZEnWv2uZQ8yejF2Od737tTyvr5xb86dwZ0J9ysKnEICVEUWrje2Kp57LpwenEfSisNi3_RjLRrcFEWYmn92sEjyvlWZgiv1ROB7MTe/s1600/DSCF4985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-9aEj4cZYMcayIpzCjNwLoiGGENAanZga7ri5q_ZEnWv2uZQ8yejF2Od737tTyvr5xb86dwZ0J9ysKnEICVEUWrje2Kp57LpwenEfSisNi3_RjLRrcFEWYmn92sEjyvlWZgiv1ROB7MTe/s320/DSCF4985.JPG" width="320" /></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU88fj9XWJLpurw3NAj2JLHlrPiPA-qBRxGqNGvCx1-U1sSPxuIXz7FaZ-TshyOUGjEYTvX67IUp5q7aIJAfga8XqEMDhORG5X7jEEV9A1e8_vqnNIMLLZRwpGni2Qlu9bnbvuL_Oa1ar6/s1600/DSCF4970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU88fj9XWJLpurw3NAj2JLHlrPiPA-qBRxGqNGvCx1-U1sSPxuIXz7FaZ-TshyOUGjEYTvX67IUp5q7aIJAfga8XqEMDhORG5X7jEEV9A1e8_vqnNIMLLZRwpGni2Qlu9bnbvuL_Oa1ar6/s320/DSCF4970.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original emblem.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw42ACBnxx4Xyy0Njk190mxYKdbYlslhXcSwLGSChxZUltIXRItFNI-yq1VFpbXBh7hE0kn8UyWGuEp7jNVp-3JXBIO8o_0LbNHbF75tSvD4FUDuh3R-RdpG0H7vZ0zqCyPf9bqPzyvFsV/s1600/DSCF4971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw42ACBnxx4Xyy0Njk190mxYKdbYlslhXcSwLGSChxZUltIXRItFNI-yq1VFpbXBh7hE0kn8UyWGuEp7jNVp-3JXBIO8o_0LbNHbF75tSvD4FUDuh3R-RdpG0H7vZ0zqCyPf9bqPzyvFsV/s320/DSCF4971.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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Thanks to Tom Stixrud, my brother-in-law, for creating the jig for this idea.<br />
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<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-52852446302439158622019-11-30T19:10:00.000-08:002019-11-30T19:14:45.541-08:00<br />
Here is a link to me being interviewed about my Anglia in 2017 at the The Little Car Show in Pacific Grove, CA<br />
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/MarinaMotorsports/videos/361253474553802/">https://www.facebook.com/MarinaMotorsports/videos/361253474553802/</a>Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-9940237211300880652019-08-26T21:32:00.000-07:002019-08-26T21:32:13.518-07:00Cortina MK1 window trim filler mouldingApplication: 1962- 66 Windshield and sedan rear window trim filler moulding. p/n: 113E-7042432<br />
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I've cut off 1" section pieces from a damaged Cortina MK1 gutter stainless steel moulding. Shaping and grinding down the side lip a bit to form a similar shape filler to the original. They are not a perfect copy of the original thus would need to be attached with sealant.<br />
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These are available to order please contact me.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtFL1RvwiDq9LbglBiB8EdedVY8aLHI5W39-5lzlE_50CeA8AaP8-j4jf40IGMjh9ZgzPY2lWU6GxBST6jpcXHN6o49KyWvQuAcAuFOktgBJgRbyk9G4K8-1GuiioTC61RfXOJBi2ppgVA/s1600/DSCF4703.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtFL1RvwiDq9LbglBiB8EdedVY8aLHI5W39-5lzlE_50CeA8AaP8-j4jf40IGMjh9ZgzPY2lWU6GxBST6jpcXHN6o49KyWvQuAcAuFOktgBJgRbyk9G4K8-1GuiioTC61RfXOJBi2ppgVA/s320/DSCF4703.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Replicated filler attached with sealant</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEKDfo8poQXGnFQAllq0NeJdPh7Bx2EQvGg98nrfswcwvOIdyA7j8nL4WylBV5z-lpDBVltnoh8Y98OEGnSVkFZbOjkVJmj4SBaqOGK_ktwe2gPuDxShQa8niumCoFbbohwe5yxgYqHC5g/s1600/DSCF4700.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEKDfo8poQXGnFQAllq0NeJdPh7Bx2EQvGg98nrfswcwvOIdyA7j8nL4WylBV5z-lpDBVltnoh8Y98OEGnSVkFZbOjkVJmj4SBaqOGK_ktwe2gPuDxShQa8niumCoFbbohwe5yxgYqHC5g/s320/DSCF4700.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Replicated fillers</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgblAAdq4tYdPIKtvReqXJHqLGZjkwrzlUPc1QQtpIaj328I_ZaYXNFUjKTNsOTSySqYyGZSmivlCvmNvY_S_JenFT-x1M4XD4PNTld3q6CfeEsUxtH4PduV7VTg0Fc3MDAEO9WufV3KgVX/s1600/DSCF4707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgblAAdq4tYdPIKtvReqXJHqLGZjkwrzlUPc1QQtpIaj328I_ZaYXNFUjKTNsOTSySqYyGZSmivlCvmNvY_S_JenFT-x1M4XD4PNTld3q6CfeEsUxtH4PduV7VTg0Fc3MDAEO9WufV3KgVX/s320/DSCF4707.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original filler on the left, replicated filler on right</td></tr>
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<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-89999550319784807472018-07-06T15:21:00.001-07:002018-07-06T15:21:17.873-07:00105E Front Seat Bracket Extension ConversationThe early bucket seat clamp bracket and spacer set on the early Cortina MKII can be used on the 105E series models to move the front seat aft approximately one inch.<br />
<br />
Image of the seat clamp and spacer are illustrated in the Cortina model "C" master parts and illustration catalog.<br />
<br />
Clamp p/n: 3014E-7360064 Spacer: 7361816<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWCDDTSiqtoVRpbUWFsw_1YmslkuEWFxDuDoAssF1VX8tlLrj4QT_sRFiNCWKU6BiK_yzRsfiLM_OWlwkMz7MTuyuSURzR0DjYtu079BJgU1KPTHvdXuaSSQUbGwwCFw6Yjpaq3bAw1MhP/s1600/DSCF4047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWCDDTSiqtoVRpbUWFsw_1YmslkuEWFxDuDoAssF1VX8tlLrj4QT_sRFiNCWKU6BiK_yzRsfiLM_OWlwkMz7MTuyuSURzR0DjYtu079BJgU1KPTHvdXuaSSQUbGwwCFw6Yjpaq3bAw1MhP/s320/DSCF4047.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original 105E seat clamp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih8zThrN75mnDaM9VdNEfDC459zMn_nRnNcm07CD51Sjviy30-aw_cr4sVdNnVBNpzzGl7a91BlFsfSeWUVdq-fe2qTqDVZpWEMMsO0LKkdePYgwC4CV6o4eoedHK2GbCJUEvfJaMIrI2V/s1600/DSCF4049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih8zThrN75mnDaM9VdNEfDC459zMn_nRnNcm07CD51Sjviy30-aw_cr4sVdNnVBNpzzGl7a91BlFsfSeWUVdq-fe2qTqDVZpWEMMsO0LKkdePYgwC4CV6o4eoedHK2GbCJUEvfJaMIrI2V/s320/DSCF4049.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cortina MKII spacer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif4wb_WZE4mVgaUoc7aDfUKclEPwDf_SBukStxrjEfGyPk66r6s72drM5T0bF_TPu1iG0_V8uVibPFVcBn7jb0NHxIUP1v4vm65Lh6BC2hs8Drgurq-JFOL8CSlOgk6yCvc-He0oCrvkar/s1600/DSCF4051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif4wb_WZE4mVgaUoc7aDfUKclEPwDf_SBukStxrjEfGyPk66r6s72drM5T0bF_TPu1iG0_V8uVibPFVcBn7jb0NHxIUP1v4vm65Lh6BC2hs8Drgurq-JFOL8CSlOgk6yCvc-He0oCrvkar/s320/DSCF4051.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cortina MKII spacer and clamp set</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Drill a new mounting hole for the aft section of the clampSnyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-10046342266690640142017-08-06T11:32:00.000-07:002017-08-06T11:32:47.459-07:00100E / 105E Light SwitchesTwist / pull type were commonly made in England by Arcoelectric, established in 1932 and remains a leading manufacture of switches and indicators.<br />
<br />
These switches can be refurbished if the unit isn't damaged or contacts are too worn beyond repair.<br />
<br />
Dismantling:<br />
<br />
Remove the 5mm nut with long nose pliers. Check each removed part for extensive wear. Use a Dremel type motor with a rotary wire brush to clean and polish the contacts and spindle shaft.<br />
<br />
Re-assemble:<br />
<br />
Observe all spring loaded tabs make contact. You may have to bent the tab a bit for firm contact.<br />
Apply lock-tite type sealant on the nut thread. Tighten the nut lightly with the shaft in the pull out<br />
( lights on ) position. <br />
<br />
Operation and continuity check:<br />
<br />
Connect an Ohm meter to the switch terminals and rotate / pull to check operation and continuity.<br />
Oil shaft with light oil . Spray a bit of WD-40 inside the switch if operating it is noisy.<br />
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<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-30054982494347099502017-02-13T14:41:00.000-08:002017-02-13T14:41:02.189-08:00License Plate Light AssembliesApplication:<br />
<br />
Butlers A-L-60 for 105E / 109E<br />
Wards & Goldstone Ltd SAE 6-61 for 114E-13543.<br />
<br />
Replace damaged or rusted light sockets with instrument light sockets that fit in a 5/8" diameter hole.<br />
<br />
Reproduction assembly:<br />
<br />
Use 1/16" sheet metal. Cut and bend to desired size and mounting angle. 5/8" light socket hole(s).<br />
My preference for a chrome cover, glass, and gasket is from an early MGB which are easily obtainable.<br />
Light sockets are 105E / 109E or Cortina MK1 / MK2.<br />
<br />
Remove light socket from bottom of assembly for easy light bulb access. Snap socket in place with low adhesion silicon to prevent moisture exposure.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJnDUFCaYfgSrSjF02F5AVoP5WpCbiHGafl0CwEffpE1_2O8yWf0rWhqVuKfErCXF6u9jOP3J3XYeb5JctuE4yMfL3SaLQjF9RSQ6bxG63oC1KWJPSIWF9scuMCoJnPiSLvDxW3Y1Tj-RD/s1600/DSCF3309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJnDUFCaYfgSrSjF02F5AVoP5WpCbiHGafl0CwEffpE1_2O8yWf0rWhqVuKfErCXF6u9jOP3J3XYeb5JctuE4yMfL3SaLQjF9RSQ6bxG63oC1KWJPSIWF9scuMCoJnPiSLvDxW3Y1Tj-RD/s320/DSCF3309.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reproduction bracket; 3 types of 5/8" English Ford light sockets; MGB cover, glass, gasket and screws)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7SnRZGMddMnf6OsI3xeSohdsVUT_s9-fUDpsigVrISNf0rsRiDYwQpY6KSTHgjEgRWAZ8BBL8Q4OVBXdHBZkNhQvHeAbwtODuTkiVchktwSD0jKhDjyVrvoD0WsxYXyVitAKu13uz0ZZ4/s1600/DSCF3311.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7SnRZGMddMnf6OsI3xeSohdsVUT_s9-fUDpsigVrISNf0rsRiDYwQpY6KSTHgjEgRWAZ8BBL8Q4OVBXdHBZkNhQvHeAbwtODuTkiVchktwSD0jKhDjyVrvoD0WsxYXyVitAKu13uz0ZZ4/s320/DSCF3311.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">114E original bracket; 105E instrument light sockets</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNkmONwpj5tqR28BY7D36hWw3nvn4XOONS1KycxnT9cOg-HZWpBx3MMUOiAk2gh9Es3ebsmLt11eH69V3lu25bt7_6gRxAMWCpxjG1Evvrh5CyjABQG-u8iVEsKKpMTv_HMBHrajiPGiNz/s1600/DSCF3315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNkmONwpj5tqR28BY7D36hWw3nvn4XOONS1KycxnT9cOg-HZWpBx3MMUOiAk2gh9Es3ebsmLt11eH69V3lu25bt7_6gRxAMWCpxjG1Evvrh5CyjABQG-u8iVEsKKpMTv_HMBHrajiPGiNz/s320/DSCF3315.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjW1dz99QOVG61zOmg7khN_2dpR6BaGiXogesouZ3N4LWumsLxvtcSVNSWZp5kp7rSdWiZ36fWQmlE_epQ5G2lgfTKc4hugGZNxsmePehsMROSDsYn2PzMY8vO6MJe7ovClMwgok29F0lI/s1600/DSCF3317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjW1dz99QOVG61zOmg7khN_2dpR6BaGiXogesouZ3N4LWumsLxvtcSVNSWZp5kp7rSdWiZ36fWQmlE_epQ5G2lgfTKc4hugGZNxsmePehsMROSDsYn2PzMY8vO6MJe7ovClMwgok29F0lI/s320/DSCF3317.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the left, original 105E light assembly. On the right, reproduction assembly.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-89882933206804263402016-05-24T13:06:00.001-07:002016-05-24T13:06:53.728-07:00Autolite / Motorcraft Four Cylinder Distributor Caps and RotorsFord officially launched Motorcraft parts division in 1972. This new brand replaced Autolite owned by Ford since 1961.<br />
Autolite Distributors were installed after 1966 for imported N.American Anglia 105E / 123E, Cortina MK2 '67-70 and Lotus Cortina MK2, including V4 engines.<br />
Autolite produced two types of distributor caps and rotors for the Autolite and later Motorcraft distributors:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs3-BuBzmlKPaT95jaf-tkDBSF7ZGIPr_BVw5z4l4_HeEB_HkepTBJ0lff-ROLMFCY6l72u3qtRALezKhNdlL47jKae_UNYE-KGFqE8hu96_b4OlTkb_WdkfTFb3CtsWD6RdJppYAc058G/s1600/DSCF2964.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs3-BuBzmlKPaT95jaf-tkDBSF7ZGIPr_BVw5z4l4_HeEB_HkepTBJ0lff-ROLMFCY6l72u3qtRALezKhNdlL47jKae_UNYE-KGFqE8hu96_b4OlTkb_WdkfTFb3CtsWD6RdJppYAc058G/s320/DSCF2964.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">C7BH-12106A (1967)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDj_x66RXNpUPGfwMVTudu7uTQV8jiL3Kn7vnX8TpoahUVQN2Ud7Dar9nY-EUeqEwJAPkZloFSlNVcVHaU_jwZYfiT4N-FXOQAHf7GD47QPLEDC4naSEnJrT4f6WzoEbEY76BMwaWzqSnr/s1600/DSCF2966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDj_x66RXNpUPGfwMVTudu7uTQV8jiL3Kn7vnX8TpoahUVQN2Ud7Dar9nY-EUeqEwJAPkZloFSlNVcVHaU_jwZYfiT4N-FXOQAHf7GD47QPLEDC4naSEnJrT4f6WzoEbEY76BMwaWzqSnr/s320/DSCF2966.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">C6AH-12106A (1966)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVl3dCxZMEqT15Ylnayn21OzLqaoeFxoZrtd8PSV6u0hR7ZuDYMyQMYhdnPG8yDyp9t-P4eEl9KaWC0OgJf2PksceZLUui5xlomleqclVQh9tfNX6ai-DU02wtcQ4dRdiYFAu8mV7zvCv1/s1600/DSCF2962.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVl3dCxZMEqT15Ylnayn21OzLqaoeFxoZrtd8PSV6u0hR7ZuDYMyQMYhdnPG8yDyp9t-P4eEl9KaWC0OgJf2PksceZLUui5xlomleqclVQh9tfNX6ai-DU02wtcQ4dRdiYFAu8mV7zvCv1/s320/DSCF2962.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Physically the same caps except C7BH has approx. 8 degree advance rotor contact position.<br />
I could not find any information on why Ford decided to develop this new type C7BH cap along with C6AH cap. I can only guess that the Autolite C7BH cap was produced for high revving Lotus Cortina MK2 engine in 1967 which is the correct cap and rotor C6AH-12200A for this model.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">C6AH-12200A (1966) DORY-12200A DORY-12200B</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The rotor on the left is meant for the 1500 / 1600 GT engine and on the right is a larger area contact rotor meant for the 997 to 1600 standard engines.<br />
<br />
According to parts suppliers all caps and rotors are interchangeable but the problem arises when a DORY-12200A ( GT ) rotor combines with a C7BH ( standard ) cap. The rotor doesn't align with contacts of the cap. Moving the distributor to align the contacts will alter the dwell.<br />
<br />
In the 105E parts book lists Autolite cap as C6AH-12106A or C7KH-12106A which is the correct cap for a 997/1198 engine but the rotor listed as C6AH-12200A or C7AH-12200A is incorrect. Should have:<br />
DOAH-12200A or DORY-12200B.<br />
<br />
Lucas Electrical parts reference for Capri 71-73 1600 and Cortina 67-70 1600 combines RA2 rotor and DC4 cap as a set which is also incorrect. Should be DC7. <br />
<br />
Match: Cap C7BH-12106A with Rotor DORY-12200A or DORY-12200B<br />
Match: Cap C6AH-12106A with Rotor DORY-12200B only<br />
No Match: Cap C6AH-12106 with Rotor DORY-12200A<br />
<br />
Interchangeable:<br />
<br />
Advanced Caps: Ford C7BH-12106A, Motorcraft EDH-13, Lucas DDB757 ( DC7 ),<br />
Niehoff FF 60 E, Standard FD 146, Autolite DHE-155<br />
<br />
Standard / Deluxe Caps: Ford C6AH-12106A, C7AH-12106A, DORY-12106A, Motorcraft EDH-12<br />
Lucas DDB754 ( DC4 ), Autolite DHE-156.<br />
<br />
Short contact rotors ( GT ): Ford C6AH-12200A, C7AH-12200A, DORY-12200A, Motorcraft DRE-90,<br />
Standard FD-113, Bremi 9563.<br />
<br />
Long contact rotors ( Standard / Deluxe ) : Ford DOAH-12200A, DORY-12200B, Motorcraft DRE-91, Standard FD-112.<br />
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Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-21621941369554621012016-01-03T12:57:00.000-08:002016-01-03T18:15:38.715-08:00Hi / Lo Dual HornsCortina / Corsair / Lotus Cortina MK1 > 8/63<br />
p/n: 113E-13800B<br />
<br />
Non-polarity sensitive horns are isolated mounted to a bracket spot welded to the inner fender. Activated by a spring loaded switch to ground on the turn signal.<br />
<br />
Servicing:<br />
<br />
Decibels can be increased by turning the square head tone adjuster screw either CW or CCW. These horns are sensitive to a slight variation of voltage. If your car is equipped with a generator and the engine is idling with a load i.e lights on, there will be a voltage drop across the horns resulting low DB power.<br />
To solve that issue, install a 20 amp relay near the horns.<br />
Inoperative horns: Drill-out the aluminum ribbed neck rivets. Separate the two halves carefully. The diaphragm / plunger assembly and circuitry should be in good condition. Slight rusting is acceptable. Clean diaphragm and inner unit with steel wool and WD-40. Check insulation material and rivets. Clean contacts with a nail file. Remove the tone adjuster screw and check to see if the screw end did not wear through the installation thus causing the screw ground to the metal flap. If it has, glue a 1/2"x1/2"x1/16" thick fiberglass type material to the adjustment pad.<br />
<br />
Continuity Check:<br />
<br />
Lo Horn: FG6 terminal #1 not grounded to housing.<br />
terminal #2 not grounded to housing.<br />
Coil check across terminal 1 and 2 approx. 120K ohms<br />
<br />
Hi Horn: FG9 terminal #1 not grounded to housing.<br />
terminal #2 not grounded to housing.<br />
Coil check across terminal 1 and 2 approx. 130K ohms<br />
<br />
Testing:<br />
<br />
Install diaphragm / plunger into coil cavity. Hold down center of diaphragm while momentarily applying 12 V to the terminals. Unit will react as a solenoid.<br />
<br />
Assembly:<br />
<br />
Replace paper gaskets as needed. Install diaphragm / plunger and attach horn housings. Install rivets machine screws, or such. ( I used 1/4" - 28 x 1/2" long ribbed neck carriage bolts with nuts for easy future access. You would need to increase the size of the holes to accept the ribbed neck bolts).<br />
Install tone adjuster screw until it just touches the pad. Horn contacts are closed. Turning the tone screw CW until the contacts just open. Check this by a ohm meter probe on one terminal and the other probe<br />
on the casing. Mounting the horns directly to the bracket without insulating and the contacts are closed will cause the horn to activate with only one hot wire to the terminal.<br />
<br />
Testing:<br />
<br />
Attach hot wire to the horn terminal and intermittently touch the ground wire to the other terminal while turning the tone screw CW slowly until the decibels is at max. At that point, there should be no continuity between each terminal to the base of the horn. The horns can be mounted either insulated or not.<br />
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<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-89211743147743419702015-08-10T12:01:00.001-07:002015-08-10T12:01:20.736-07:00Exhaust Header Heat WrapThermal tape, Heat Tape, or Header Tape. Do not use on mild steel headers.<br />
<br />
In Theory:<br />
<br />
Header wraps are designed to keep the heat in the header which reduces radiant heat around the engine bay.<br />
There is a slight, if any, performance gain.<br />
<br />
Header manufactures or even custom header makers will void any warranty claims if header wrap is installed.<br />
<br />
Facts:<br />
<br />
Insulating the header with any type wrap will increase the surface temperature to molten levels causing metal fatigue and the tubing to crack. It will also trap moisture and a quick way to destroy mild steel headers.<br />
<br />
Conclusion:<br />
<br />
Heat wraps can be used on starters, fuel lines, or wiring in the engine bay.<br />
<br />
Below:<br />
<br />
These headers are destroyed after applying heat wrap within two months time. The tubing nearly crystallized<br />
preventing any welding repair. All the tubing would need replacement.<br />
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<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-32357675603019191822015-06-25T11:09:00.001-07:002015-06-25T13:27:20.384-07:00Kent engine oil dipsticks / timing coversThree types of dipsticks for the Kent series front bowl oil pan. They should have the part number stamped on the end of the dipstick.<br />
<br />
Anglia 105E/123E, Prefect 107E, Capri 109E, Cortina 1200.<br />
<br />
P/N: 105E-6752 ( 997 / 1198 / 1340 engines )<br />
Length: 17" to 19"<br />
Full mark to center stop: 9.5"<br />
Note: Error in Anglia 105E parts book: listed 105E-6752 as 105E-6752B<br />
<br />
Cortina MK1/2 1500, Capri 116E 1500.<br />
<br />
P/N: 105E-6752B ( 1500 pre-crossflow )<br />
Length: 18.5"<br />
Full mark to center stop 9"<br />
<br />
Cortina MK2 1600.<br />
<br />
P/N: 2737E-6752A or DORY-6750B.<br />
Length: 20.5"<br />
Full mark to center stop: 9.5"<br />
Note: 105E-6752 will interchange with DORY-6750B<br />
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<br />
Timing cover<br />
<br />
P/N: 105E-6059B EnFo and DORY-6019A FoMoCo. Interchange.<br />
Note: Only difference is the tube boss is slightly beefier on the later FoMoCo cover.<br />
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<br />
Dipstick tube <br />
<br />
P/N: 105E-6754 or DORY-6754A<br />
Tube length varies: 3.5" to 4" <br />
Tube length inserted into timing cover: 3"<br />
<br />
Dipstick notches and tubes wear out, in some cases, nearly 1/8" worn off the dipstick notch.<br />
Causing an inaccurate oil quantity reading on the dipstick. A way around this is to apply 3/8" thin walled shrink tube around the notch. Cut length 1" and adjust 1/4"-1/2" below the notch.<br />
Note: Will also help seal the dipstick tube preventing blow by from a worn engine.<br />
<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-12945157003316937122014-12-15T11:57:00.000-08:002014-12-15T11:57:19.570-08:00204E / 206E Replacement GaitersApplicable to the MK2 Zodiac, Zephyr, Consul '56-62.<br />
<br />
English Ford p/n: E 125-GD-2. Inner dimension: 2 1/8" x 2 1/8" x (1 11/16" fork cut-out).<br />
Ford p/n: C30Z-7513A. Inner dimension: 2 1/4" x 2 1/4" x ( 1 1/2" fork cut-out).<br />
<br />
These Gaiters are used in the English Ford made Dagenham 4 speed transmission for the "62-'65 Ford Fairlane, Falcon, Mercury Meteor, Comet 144ci / 170ci 6 cylinders 64 1/2- 65 Ford Mustang 170ci / 200ci. 6 cylinders.<br />
U.S. Ford offered three types of Dagenham transmissions which are L/H side-loaders p/n: 212E-7006F.<br />
Dagenhams are similar to the English Ford 211E/213E and U.S. 3 speed 2.77 / 3.07 trans ( designations are not gear ratios).<br />
<br />
Replacement Gaiters are easily sourced from Ford parts suppliers, or ebay. $15-$24. They fit tightly in the Bell Housing and Fork. Smear vaseline on the Gaiter for easier installation, being careful not to poke thru the rubber. Use a worn, wide-blade screw driver to help maneuver the gaiter into place.<br />
<br />
This replacement Gaiter may not work on the EOTA / EOTTA and 211E /213E Bell Housing. Measure the Bell Housing opening and Clutch Fork. I don't have access to these types.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left hand E 125-GD 2 / Right hand C30Z-7513A</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn2PUCinVyb8TE6uVf2ZhHyX8puIHt6LRUuQ6Th7lQYKOdncyketrcVfaNSxWEM262ykaRzzr_UaFkjNhmJpLykCV2tTt7U_J0f9008pehGi8O2MSXVJ7_qdAQ57IhLSiWFdMX7kh2aQRs/s1600/DSCF2276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn2PUCinVyb8TE6uVf2ZhHyX8puIHt6LRUuQ6Th7lQYKOdncyketrcVfaNSxWEM262ykaRzzr_UaFkjNhmJpLykCV2tTt7U_J0f9008pehGi8O2MSXVJ7_qdAQ57IhLSiWFdMX7kh2aQRs/s1600/DSCF2276.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left hand E 125-GD 2 / Right hand C30Z-7513A</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3yg3H54hyphenhyphenN-3kbSPfGX9TaYJfrJjv0OFYtvdmXzUAWotEHlUEBlsndMqj6VixTRpij3wt-j7ohntFwC6zO15w4gE-Gii4wWImQFnfbx4fMm_qtl1Ftq99rkk4KOnU659hEV8qY79_I0yU/s1600/DSCF2282.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3yg3H54hyphenhyphenN-3kbSPfGX9TaYJfrJjv0OFYtvdmXzUAWotEHlUEBlsndMqj6VixTRpij3wt-j7ohntFwC6zO15w4gE-Gii4wWImQFnfbx4fMm_qtl1Ftq99rkk4KOnU659hEV8qY79_I0yU/s1600/DSCF2282.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Installed C30Z-7513A Gaiter in 206E bell housing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-37485404217747194402014-11-30T12:21:00.000-08:002014-11-30T12:21:13.530-08:00Vented and Non-Vented Gas Caps There are two types of fuel tank caps that are available: vented and non-vented.<br />
A non-vented cap will cause fuel feed problems if your fuel tank is not vented. So you must use a vented gas cap, otherwise it will put a strain on the fuel pump, particularly compact solid state electric fuel pumps will fail in no time. Vented caps let in air to take up the used fuel and relieve internal pressure build up in non-vented tanks. Use the correct cap for your particular model.<br />
<br />
Vented systems are ones that vent fuel fumes to the outside air thru either a vented cap or vented tank.<br />
Modern closed
systems are ones that reuse the vapors that fuels put off by
recirculating it back into the fuel system by ways of an inline purge
valve, or a type of a carbon canister system, or any other means in a
closed system thru an internal fuel vent. In 1970, Cortina MK2 in North
America came with non-vented caps for a closed evaporative emission
system.<br />
<br />
<br />
Below is a list of English Ford vented and non-vented caps:<br />
<br />
100E series: Non-vented tank. Vented caps: EOA-9030 or Locking cap: E493A-9030.<br />
105E series: Non-vented tank. Vented caps: 105E-9030A or Locking cap: 105E-9030<br />
105E Estate: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 400E-9030A or Locking cap: 400E-9030B<br />
307E series: Non-vented tank. Vented cap : 307E-9030.<br />
109E Capri / Classic Consul. Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 204E-9030A or Locking cap: 204E-9030B<br />
<br />
EOTA / ETTOA: Non-vented tank. Vented caps: EOA-9030 or Locking cap E493-9030.<br />
204E / 206E: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 204E-9030A or Locking cap: 204E-9030B.<br />
211E / 213E: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 204E-9030A or Locking cap: 204E-9030B.<br />
<br />
Cortina MK1 sedan: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 400E-9030A or Locking cap: 400E-9030B.<br />
Cortina MK1 Estate: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 113E-9030A or Locking cap: 3014E-9030C<br />
<br />
<br /><br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-92120285393009054442014-10-16T16:14:00.001-07:002014-10-16T16:14:52.628-07:00Kent Engine series Water Pumps and W/P PulleysTwo types of water pumps (w/p) : 105E and uprated Capri / Pinto 1600.<br />
<br />
105E type:<br />
<br />
W/P: Ford p/n: 105E-8501A. Quinton Hazel p/n: QCP-181.<br />
Dimensions: Hub 2 5/8". Center of Hub 3/4". Hub bolt holes 3/16". Shaft diameter: 1/2".<br />
<br />
W/P Pulley: single groove w/o emission p/n: 105E-8509B. double groove w/emission p/n: 2737E-8509B.<br />
Dimensions: width 4 1/4". height 1 7/16".<br />
<br />
All U.S.A. EnFo imported models are equipped with the 105E type w/p's:<br />
Anglia 105E, Prefect 107E, Consul / Classic / Capri 109E, Cortina MK1/2.<br />
<br />
Cortina MK2 Master Parts Catalog lists W/P p/n: DORY-8501A and with DORY-8509B W/P pulley.<br />
This is an uprated W/P version ( and matching pulley ) of the 105E W/P and not supplied on smog equipped models.<br />
<br />
Uprated 1600 type:<br />
<br />
W/P: Ford p/n: DORY-8501A. 691F-8501AA. 682F-8501A. Quiton Hazel p/n: QCP-730.<br />
Dimensions: Hub 2 5/8". Center Hub 15/16". Hub bolt holes 5/16" Shaft diameter: 5/8". Heavy Duty Casting. On 711M block and after.<br />
<br />
W/P Pulley: p/n: DORY-8509B<br />
Dimensions: width 4 1/4" height 1 5/8". <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAiy4lLy3mDyzq8nVU5Fn24KCW6RKUX_SbSYpBTM63pGO-sEREOTJqPlyiki3sDasAgSQ-oFqyYza9zM0jFwL0kbFJg9lXN2jdjxqVow3fksDzk-ZiMXGG2E3rxKc2OTfbfsiZFN3QaI-x/s1600/DSCF2140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAiy4lLy3mDyzq8nVU5Fn24KCW6RKUX_SbSYpBTM63pGO-sEREOTJqPlyiki3sDasAgSQ-oFqyYza9zM0jFwL0kbFJg9lXN2jdjxqVow3fksDzk-ZiMXGG2E3rxKc2OTfbfsiZFN3QaI-x/s1600/DSCF2140.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left to Right: p/n 2737E-8509B, p/n 105E-8509B, p/n DORY-8509B</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDLPclhNmE9NNOm7efIbJUWl6hFMdYHpqdTcYXj0DQUtyTSR8uu_igKYoI0oUx-OWm4ImIPuCLPU6ArZQlWigkz-rzC3DREfnLez16h78kYpF3jQtm2vHeck5BBLNRoeViH7IIX4PMij2k/s1600/DSCF2141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDLPclhNmE9NNOm7efIbJUWl6hFMdYHpqdTcYXj0DQUtyTSR8uu_igKYoI0oUx-OWm4ImIPuCLPU6ArZQlWigkz-rzC3DREfnLez16h78kYpF3jQtm2vHeck5BBLNRoeViH7IIX4PMij2k/s1600/DSCF2141.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left to Right: p/n 105E-8501A, p/n DORY-8501A</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZmU1R4IRJusp_juYhKGQn1ySM9GFM4Ej8gr3-t45OOziKlIE4giC1Jqis6t-kbgAAYM4RpMByibg1gotJE9KaW5paQcPOrL8WlgAQOhSbGorhVi10sckm0rPI0jTqAC83f14TlR35RYXD/s1600/DSCF2143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZmU1R4IRJusp_juYhKGQn1ySM9GFM4Ej8gr3-t45OOziKlIE4giC1Jqis6t-kbgAAYM4RpMByibg1gotJE9KaW5paQcPOrL8WlgAQOhSbGorhVi10sckm0rPI0jTqAC83f14TlR35RYXD/s1600/DSCF2143.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water Pump Spacer p/n 2730E-8A645A</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCtQELqJKLtvX_vTQGF8I-YBd_4fSvsH4RlpHcjRu2pa46VDTImaES5UIFdJii7WW9RVYRVz6kQb_nBF82AJ8TucsErCOQYPwrKZ0pjdI6-efNXHNobyXLSNewDQFJ7xMOfdR8RZelk9Jv/s1600/DSCF2146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCtQELqJKLtvX_vTQGF8I-YBd_4fSvsH4RlpHcjRu2pa46VDTImaES5UIFdJii7WW9RVYRVz6kQb_nBF82AJ8TucsErCOQYPwrKZ0pjdI6-efNXHNobyXLSNewDQFJ7xMOfdR8RZelk9Jv/s1600/DSCF2146.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">105E Pump with Spacer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Uprated W/P can be a replacement for the 105E W/P. You would need to use the matching DORY-8509B<br />
pulley and enlarge the center hole of the fan blade to 15/16" and increase the bolt holes to 5/16".<br />
<br />
A fan blade spacer p/n: 2730E-8A645A provided for the Cortina MK2. This part is not listed in the Cortina "C" Master Parts Catalog. The spacer should be installed on all MK2 105E type W/Ps either for metal or plastic fan blades.<br />
<br />
All impellers should be made of metal, cast iron or steel, some after market 105E type W/P's had plastic impellers-don't use. They will come loose or melt from high heat. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-49394395213214713782014-05-30T15:09:00.004-07:002014-05-30T16:28:26.497-07:00204E Fuel Sender Units<b>EnFo p/n:</b> 204E-9275A/B/C<br />
<br />
<b>For:</b> '59-67 Anglia 105E sedan<br />
'61-64 Consul Capri / Classic<br />
'56-62 Zodiac / Zephyr / Consul sedan.<br />
<br />
<b>Unit Manufactures / Type: </b> Float Sender Unit. Resistive wire wound Bobbin, Single Sweep.<br />
- Smiths T.F. 1000/23 WET EnFo p/n: 204E-9275A <br />
- AC 7228816 12V D5 EnFo p/n: 204E-9275B<br />
<span id="goog_1430066410"></span><span id="goog_1430066411"></span>Replaced by 204E-9275C. I assume that T.F. means mounted on top of fuel tank-WET, submerged.<br />
AC/Smiths units are interchangeable. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXihX_-twliLmd5qcMqZsPQGdK_hasxhVafRlruQH6UjbJ00Vs9Ih2Unb5dZ4bEfP8mb6nuTBfsKSB2_UQGQQNFbCzQX2d-G69GjnLT9fWcRDRKZ003nWdNz3_-tgANVfQHtWZsBpH2hid/s1600/DSCF1986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXihX_-twliLmd5qcMqZsPQGdK_hasxhVafRlruQH6UjbJ00Vs9Ih2Unb5dZ4bEfP8mb6nuTBfsKSB2_UQGQQNFbCzQX2d-G69GjnLT9fWcRDRKZ003nWdNz3_-tgANVfQHtWZsBpH2hid/s1600/DSCF1986.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rebuilt 204E Fuel Sender Unit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b></b>
<b>Unit Manufacture specs: </b> Resistive range: 12-22 Ohms to 240-290 Ohms (depending on the # of wire turns on bobbin and condition of the unit) <br />
<b>Wire type:</b> Nichrome #34 .006 diameter. approx. 20 Ohms per foot non-magnetic.<br />
<b>Wire length: </b>14 ft. 200 turns.<br />
<br />
<b>Typical failures: </b>Intermittent, corrosion, worn or damaged, and unit not grounded. Check that the unit is properly grounded to the body (there should be a ground wire from the sender unit mounting screw to the body/chassis) before removing the unit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Removal: </b> Remove unit from fuel tank. Remove the access plate from the unit (two screws or two tabs) Corroded/stuck units should be soaked in a cleaning solution ( DO NOT SAND-BLAST). Discard units with excessive corrosion on the aluminum body that has worn thru. Units in decent shape with moveable parts are more desirable. Check the float for small holes or fuel inside. Repair holes with silver solder and flux, if necessary.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCbH-57bqlsKoHr_fqj1WJhgSLCGkLchCX3nK7Ot4fyzUvioU8tT2zkpvASHWFs3ZvfwGvrC_PtrZxUx0yevsjdWCybjEClbPM-EyDYVT3YTzMQZE_EHtP_W9-Wx0u4uM9HLNwthweTEm/s1600/DSCF1962.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCbH-57bqlsKoHr_fqj1WJhgSLCGkLchCX3nK7Ot4fyzUvioU8tT2zkpvASHWFs3ZvfwGvrC_PtrZxUx0yevsjdWCybjEClbPM-EyDYVT3YTzMQZE_EHtP_W9-Wx0u4uM9HLNwthweTEm/s1600/DSCF1962.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corroded Unit but bobbin in good shape</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Condition:</b> Check the condition of the wire-wound resistor, sweeper contact, wire connection to the terminal. Clean the face surface of the wire-wound resistor with a cleaning solution/acid brush.<br />
<br />
Connect a digital Ohm meter, one probe to the body of the unit the other probe to the spade connector. Move the float arm slowly from one end to the other end. A steady reading of approximately 12 ohms to approximately 290 ohms.<br />
<br />
Corroded terminals should be removed by drilling out the rivet on the top connector side. Replace worn parts. Re-attach with a 1/8" x 5/8" long aluminum pop rivet. <br />
<br />
<b>Re-Winding Resistors: </b>This procedure will require a NZ-1 winding machine. NZ-1 has been modified to accept a bobbin. It's nearly impossible to re-wind by hand. I will show you how I accomplished this.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkYgQ1-zYgaGjD-TXsqQDix1Q_l6Wxz8hsb65byB5xzulX14NPedcIP06kqPybh_bVWFBAHVrWpA-6mNweRdear9WuO6Jhx4D8gM0GHBhaW0Boqu26MU76YG0aQA_Hse3NoYr1EwklxmAt/s1600/DSCF1976.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkYgQ1-zYgaGjD-TXsqQDix1Q_l6Wxz8hsb65byB5xzulX14NPedcIP06kqPybh_bVWFBAHVrWpA-6mNweRdear9WuO6Jhx4D8gM0GHBhaW0Boqu26MU76YG0aQA_Hse3NoYr1EwklxmAt/s1600/DSCF1976.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">NZ-1 Manual Winding Setup</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjxgfJcnVncpOmqnVBD1qkLSj210NdBUHxqEE-IXtYZbPuiEp_0oBFjj3Rah1rT6w0_oFbfWgdjBkWWwkLbBUynoYvIKmDhRA7tWM82yRjGG3NmEd52DE1HDk42sc-xsZYOUNVAXJxaw2F/s1600/DSCF1978.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjxgfJcnVncpOmqnVBD1qkLSj210NdBUHxqEE-IXtYZbPuiEp_0oBFjj3Rah1rT6w0_oFbfWgdjBkWWwkLbBUynoYvIKmDhRA7tWM82yRjGG3NmEd52DE1HDk42sc-xsZYOUNVAXJxaw2F/s1600/DSCF1978.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mounted Bobbin wound with Kanthal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTmrnMolKDZ9uCYDXPvYqycHhUK0pO8GWeLpWamjrIDLrkqqS4-AN-YepQT00Ju1Lzu_1FldKsXAhRJQjLc8i4BVVbem9_nz_zbSnlsfowr-c8TX8-XNcQpqYgpkaZ4XFTQHZNKPbQi3yw/s1600/DSCF1966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTmrnMolKDZ9uCYDXPvYqycHhUK0pO8GWeLpWamjrIDLrkqqS4-AN-YepQT00Ju1Lzu_1FldKsXAhRJQjLc8i4BVVbem9_nz_zbSnlsfowr-c8TX8-XNcQpqYgpkaZ4XFTQHZNKPbQi3yw/s1600/DSCF1966.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arm removal with punch and hammer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ49m2dKyFlWj9IiMjWUbqIoy6YoVj4-WrOUg1Cf6RHScD6lQAnhyphenhyphenL2_nfx6OkZvg2AhrgCnJ7f1wlWPzPC4Fy-zsAQYOLZSzsHJABDLEYlOf6qcy8qeC4CBpIQZhKE4AXUMloEjFWeaql/s1600/DSCF1984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ49m2dKyFlWj9IiMjWUbqIoy6YoVj4-WrOUg1Cf6RHScD6lQAnhyphenhyphenL2_nfx6OkZvg2AhrgCnJ7f1wlWPzPC4Fy-zsAQYOLZSzsHJABDLEYlOf6qcy8qeC4CBpIQZhKE4AXUMloEjFWeaql/s1600/DSCF1984.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Installing arm. Place arm in vise. Tap on sweeper stud.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Remove the arm/float assembly as shown (mark the position of the arm).<br />
Remove the sweeper assembly (detach the braided copper ground strap, if there) <br />
The bobbin is safety crimped in its guide. Carefully remove the safety tabs. Cut the wire to the terminal. Carefully remove the bobbin. You may have to move it back and forth until loose. Use WD-40 if needed. Remove the resistive wire. It may come off in sections. Total length 14'.<br />
<br />
<b>Alternative Resistive Wire:</b> Kanthal A1 #34 gauge (.006 diameter ) 21.1 ohms per foot. Magnetic.<br />
<b>Kanthal resistive wire:</b> chromium, aluminum, Iron.<br />
<br />
Nichrome and Kanthal cannot be soldered with a typical soldering iron, unless excessive heat was applied. So, wrap the end of the wire a couple of times around the interior terminal. Apply electrical solder to the terminal covering the wrapped wire completely with solder.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Result:</b> 165 turns on the bobbin and installed in the unit came to 22 ohms to 242 ohms.<br />
I sprayed some EL601 Red Insulating Varnish on the coil but the fuel washed it off. So leaving the wire bare did not effect the resistive range. Also, I didn't attach a braided copper wire from the sweeper rod to casing ground as i figure that the cover plate notch should press against the top sweeper rod for grounding. Some units had the ground strap missing or broken in that case the unit still worked properly.<br />
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<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-18256548116652813932013-08-23T11:40:00.000-07:002013-08-23T11:43:17.228-07:00Lucas Reproduction Distributor RotorsBeware of Lucas reproduction rotors that have the troublesome rivets that holds down the brass contact to the plastic body. These are known to short circuit causing misfiring or complete ignition failure. There is insufficient insulation ( on some versions only 1/16" plastic material ) between the bottom of the rivet and distributor shaft.<br />
The original Lucas rotors brass contact was recessed or molded into the plastic body which did not provide a rivet.<br />
I cut a few rotors in half along side the rivet and found that the distance between the base of the rivet to the distributor shaft was only 1/16". In that case, high voltage ignitions would easily short circuit across to the distributor shaft. Most reproduction rotors do not have an inner spring clip and could fit loosely on the shaft causing it to wobble. This will make contact with the distributor cap contacts, assuming the shaft bushing is not worn.<br />
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There are quality reproduction rotors available i.e. http://www.distributordoctor.com/red-rotor-arms.htmlSnyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-44991341531459913002013-04-09T17:30:00.000-07:002017-05-14T12:01:01.391-07:00Crankcase Ventilation SeparatorsPositive Crankcase Ventilation before 1963 was through a draft tube.<br />
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The following year a separator to remove the engine oil and return the blow-by gases back into the engine via a PCV valve.<br />
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Between 1964-1967, there are two types of separators and matching fuel pumps for the Kent series engines:<br />
1) In/out baffled internal drain separator and AC fuel pump with non-drain tube.<br />
2) In/out baffled separator with external oil drain outlet and AC fuel pump with oil drain tube.<br />
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Internal drain separator can be used for either AC fuel pump. Just plug the AC pump drain tube.<br />
External drain separator is only used with an AC pump with a drain tube. Do not plug the separator drain tube when installing a different fuel pump. This will fill the separator with engine oil thus making it dysfunctional.<br />
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An excellent explanation on Engine-Breather Systems by Burton: http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/engine-breather-system.html<br />
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Installing aftermarket Aluminum Valve Covers.<br />
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All gasoline engines need a positive crankcase ventilation ( pressure will find it's way out ) which sucks fresh air through a type of breather system ( vented oil cap, vent tube, or filter attachment on the valve cover )<br />
Most aftermarket aluminum valve covers are sealed with only a small .025 size vent hole on the oil cap. That is not sufficient to allow enough air into the engine. One option would be to drill a hole at the blank rear area of the cover and attach a threaded tube with a small filter.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ-uYTu5HnfnXZbFmjq3ygbXi7ppSfoEDWmwWes8Mb1fUQ07UPxV3gF7MjTKRZKLfhJ2Ntkn3lHn7Ahh2FEQfRsoT2FUZsghlzJSHjucIZWgkiiA-KKAL6lvgc4TYvLmBTwaU0iqqFJ90r/s1600/DSCF3423.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ-uYTu5HnfnXZbFmjq3ygbXi7ppSfoEDWmwWes8Mb1fUQ07UPxV3gF7MjTKRZKLfhJ2Ntkn3lHn7Ahh2FEQfRsoT2FUZsghlzJSHjucIZWgkiiA-KKAL6lvgc4TYvLmBTwaU0iqqFJ90r/s1600/DSCF3423.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aftermarket English Ford Valve Cover</td></tr>
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<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-59793349534503226142013-03-04T15:52:00.000-08:002013-03-04T15:52:15.211-08:00Speedometer Cable Housing - Plastic End FittingsSome English Ford speedometer housing cables have plastic end fittings which attach to the transmission by a metal fork. The plastic fittings will eventually warp by heat and pressure from the attachment fork.<br />
( Replace speedometer cable assembly if the plastic fitting is loose around the cable housing )<br />
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Warped plastic ends will cause oil leaks even silicon sealant won't solve the leaking problem.<br />
To resolve this defect without replacing the housing. Use a 1/16" thick washer 1 3/16" x 5/8" cut off a 3/8"<br />
section so it would slip past the housing. Apply a bit of sealant to the plastic fitting face. Place the washer<br />
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cut out end up, against the plastic fitting and tighten the attachment fork.Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-10314714671968740192013-01-06T15:43:00.002-08:002013-01-06T15:43:49.674-08:00Anglia 105E Steering Box Top Plate re-inforcement105E steering boxes, in general, are relatively reliable units and will function properly for years as long as they are kept topped with the correct oil.<br />
Occasionally, the steering box top plate works itself loose due to worn suspension components, unbalanced wheels, or vibration. Requiring re-tightening of the four top plate bolts. Eventually, the top plate will work loose again causing play in the steering box and steering wheel shimmy around 40 mph. A loose top plate will put stress on the internal components of the steering box.<br />
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A permanent solution to this problem would be to weld two 1/8" thick "L" brackets to the top plate and body, as shown.<br />
Remove the top plate ( collect the spilled oil ). Produce two similar "L" shaped brackets. Mount them symmetrically together, clamp, and drill two holes for two 1/4" size head bolts and nuts. Install and tighten. Weld one bracket to the top plate, as shown in the picture. Re-install the top plate to the s/box. Tighten the four top plate bolts. Tap weld the bracket to the body. Remove the 1/4" bolts from the brackets. Remove the top plate. Cover the exposed steering box with a rag and weld the bracket to the body. Apply a bit of Locktite to the top plate bolts threads and install the bolt locking plates if desired but now, not necessary anymore.<br />
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This modification especially benefits Anglias still using a steering box for rallying.<br />
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<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-24322653031617340232012-11-02T15:20:00.000-07:002012-11-02T15:20:48.339-07:00Magnetic Drain PlugsMagnetic engine oil drain plugs were not an option on any English Ford vehicle, to at least, up to the 1970's.<br />
I've seen a few automatic transmissions that had a prolonged small iron magnet pressed into a drain plug but these are very weak compared to a new style magnet.<br />
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Attach a "rare earth magnet" ( Neodymium-Iron-Boron ) size: 3/8 x 1/8 to the threaded end of a drain plug by either drilling a 3/8" hole, approx. 1/8" deep for an Anglia 105E 3/4" x 24 plug type or epoxy to the end of a 1/2" x 20 plug i.e. Cortina MK2.<br />
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Once installed, this will allow you to observe any ferrous metal particles in the engine oil after an oil change.<br />
Too much metal attached to the magnetic may indicate a problem with i.e. the camshaft lobes.<br />
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Manual transmissions have a cup-style drain plug to trap metal particles which are mostly syncro ring brass particles. By the way, the flat-end fill plug should not be installed as a drain plug.<br />
Add a "rare earth magnet" or remove the old iron magnet on the drain plug for an Automatic Transmission.<br />
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Some of these transmissions had a iron slug magnet welded to the inner bottom of the pan which should be left in place.Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-70244027474765191462012-10-15T13:26:00.000-07:002012-10-15T13:26:30.375-07:00Positive-Ground Systems.The transition to negative ground came around the mid-1950's for American cars, 1967 for English Fords and around 1971 for all other English cars. The preference to use - or + ground didn't matter much. The standardization to negative ground in the Auto industry was only because of the introduction of negative ground electronic gadgets. <br />
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If you already converted the car from + to - ground, do not use the original Lucas coil marked CB and SW even though you reversed the two wires on the coil. Purchase a new coil made for negative ground systems. It should read + on one side and - on the other side of the coil.<br />
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Here's why:<br />
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Primary & Secondary Circuits on a CB / SW positive ground Coil:<br />
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When the engine is running, each time the points open, the current stops flowing and the magnetic field collapses around the primary. The secondary has approximately, 20,000 turns of fine wire ( 100 to 1 wire wound ratio secondary to primary ). The collapsing magnetic field will induce a voltage of + 22,000 volts at the core for the spark plugs. <br />
Auto-Transformer action: In a coil the secondary and primary windings are in series. If the wires to CB and SW were reversed then the current will flow in the opposite direction and will defeat the purpose of an auto-transformer effect. The arc-over voltage output of the coil would be approximately 10% less . It is spark current that ignites gasoline. Obviously, if you don't achieve arc-over voltage, no spark current will flow.<br />
In other words, there is approximately 10% reduction of voltage required to jump a spark plug gap. If the car is converted to a negative ground and a negative ground coil isn't installed then the 10% voltage advantage is gone.<br />
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<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-3548544626620035482012-09-18T16:25:00.000-07:002012-09-18T16:29:38.814-07:00105E / 113E / 118E Transmission Back-up light Switch<br />
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This procedure is done with the transmission removed from the car and reverse selector rod removed from the transmission. It's not necessary to completely dismantle the transmission for this step.<br />
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Anglia 105E, Classic / Capri, and Cortina MK1 models have a manual activated toggle switch located on the lower end of the shelf as standard or optional equip. After 1967 the back-up light switch were mounted on top of the transmission casing activated by the reverse selector rod.<br />
Any early transmission casings can easily be modified to an automatic back-up light system. By using a reverse switch from the Cortina MK2 or any universal 3/8 x 24 ( 1" long shaft length ) similar switch.<br />
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Drill a proper diameter hole directly above the reverse selector rod transmission casing, as pictured, for a 3/8" x 24 tap. Grind a 1.63" end section off the selector rod to create a 9/32" wide flat surface. Then grind a 5/16" long, approx. 20 degree slope at the end of the selector rod for a switch step-up.<br />
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Insert the rod in the casing and mount the back-up light switch. Adjust the switch so it will turn on-off ( an ohm meter will do ) while moving the reverse rod. Assemble the transmission for re-installation and mount the switch to the casing. Engage the stick shift in reverse to check activation. Leave the switch installed as it will not interfere with transmission installation.Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-31280017775928876792012-09-05T15:06:00.001-07:002014-04-07T11:34:16.097-07:00English Ford Transmission Selector ForksWorn selector forks or syncro-mesh assemblies can cause the engaged gear to jump out of its position when decelerating. <br />
Assuming all transmission components are in good condition but the selector fork facing on both sides are worn down to 5/32" thick ( new fork facings are 1/4" thick ). This excessive play within the sleeve groove<br />
can cause the transmission to jump out of gear.<br />
One solution is to fill the worn area of each side of the fork by weld brazing up to 1" in length and grind smooth and form to a thickness of 1/4". Do not repair forks that are worn beyond 5/32" thickness. New forks are still available i.e., Burton Ltd.<br />
Displayed are two 113E bronze/aluminum forks from the Cortina MK1. On the left is a worn repairable fork and on the right a reconditioned fork after weld filling and finish grinding.<br />
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I have reconditioned steel forks for Anglia 105E transmissions and brass forks for the 113E - 2000E three-rail box and later single-rail Cortina MK2 box. I found that all selector forks for these boxes have a face diameter / thickness of 1/4". Reverse selector forks don't have much wear.Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-8679527226314825892012-08-06T13:27:00.000-07:002012-08-06T13:39:40.971-07:00Metallifacture JacksMetallifacture Co. ( Nowadays Magal Metallifacture Ltd ) supplied a majority of Automotive manufactures i,e., English Ford, BMC, Jaguar, Aston Martin, with Jacks and Tool kits etc. Some Jacks are identical between car manufactures.<br />
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English Ford P/N: xxxx- 17080 series Jacks:<br />
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Consul, Zephyr / Zodiac MK1 EOA-17080C ( High Lift Square Hole Side Entry Jacks )<br />
- Tripod Crank Jack - Square Insert<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcQSiq7Q0SvxVHGMBzXed59ingZH-tcRT_HoXx-TuklhR9KrPlq2ObSPgjIa1dzsAAFp-BkhFcuaXCtJ5MMVQ6RN5VMgT9YLzREShUbtIKMROGU37GTg1J5fduUaOZZXjGiTn5wxKnAv3x/s1600/DSCF1593.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcQSiq7Q0SvxVHGMBzXed59ingZH-tcRT_HoXx-TuklhR9KrPlq2ObSPgjIa1dzsAAFp-BkhFcuaXCtJ5MMVQ6RN5VMgT9YLzREShUbtIKMROGU37GTg1J5fduUaOZZXjGiTn5wxKnAv3x/s320/DSCF1593.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Anglia / Prefect 100E 100E-17080 ( High Lift Square Hole Side Entry Jacks )<br />
-Tripod Crank Jack - Square Insert<br />
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Anglia 105E / Prefect 107E, Cortina MK2 105E-204E-211E-69ZB-69BB-17080 ( High Lift 7/8" Hole Side Entry Jacks )<br />
-Tripod / Inverted HD "T" ( Crank or Ratchet Handle) Jack<br />
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Cortina / Lotus MK1 113E-120E-17080 ( dome pin entry ) <br />
-"Y" Type Jack ( Ratchet Handle )<br />
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Defective Jack Handles can be rebuilt. The Ratchet Latch Spring may break. Remove the rivets and separate the two halves. Replace the spring with a similar type or a snail spring as used in a generator brush spring. Re-assemble using pop rivets as pictured lower handle.<br />
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Any additional Jack information would be appreciated.Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2204272751731463252.post-86718727290005236712012-07-03T16:55:00.000-07:002012-07-03T16:55:03.681-07:00Canister Type Oil Pressure SendersThese senders are on the Cortina GT 10/64 > 9/66. Ford p/n : C5EH-9D290B or C9EH-9D290A. <br />
80 psi ( stamped near the brass base ).<br />
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Function:<br />
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The oil gauge has 5 volts applied from the voltage stabilizer to one terminal the other terminal connects to the sender which acts as a variable resistor to ground.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf2_VkxIeHxzWltkB6jV6lP_xH8WQDtOX-97cexoJgsgqn4TdNZQWVF4OJZnrtB4V3-wxO2pOahklB0Uy47Q9HPiD5RhVqOgmGRFmck6DYKGPS4KAfQbQL9p1LmYp2iSYxoz0zVIV33Lmi/s1600/DSCF1523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf2_VkxIeHxzWltkB6jV6lP_xH8WQDtOX-97cexoJgsgqn4TdNZQWVF4OJZnrtB4V3-wxO2pOahklB0Uy47Q9HPiD5RhVqOgmGRFmck6DYKGPS4KAfQbQL9p1LmYp2iSYxoz0zVIV33Lmi/s320/DSCF1523.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">64-66 Cortina MK1 GT Oil Sender Unit</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxMg3hfe_OzCsRUiDsnH9lKQmz3sOo3ARepjSyXzB9NM-XMhdRSO5WsRzv-Gv2Yw1lKL9d-0brzgR5CgfSp-X0w966NwZXmyzKnWVIv7Svi4We_qkQthg3okps_Zu5zFuHmR7FWiFXfiH2/s1600/DSCF1524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxMg3hfe_OzCsRUiDsnH9lKQmz3sOo3ARepjSyXzB9NM-XMhdRSO5WsRzv-Gv2Yw1lKL9d-0brzgR5CgfSp-X0w966NwZXmyzKnWVIv7Svi4We_qkQthg3okps_Zu5zFuHmR7FWiFXfiH2/s320/DSCF1524.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Canister plus spring loaded plunger base cut off to expose circuitry and diaphragm </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilwvvebe445nYnUgowGPHOz1ZnWVKe8t6nfLjZKIdQyiBvQl6NLWM40Y_VIXjQoeMaADVSPB0xRrv23hUajvPOVyhMobDy7UhTZgZvXMIUVIDu_suazvvKgFcDh83x-c6injq1gANyvJr5/s1600/DSCF1526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilwvvebe445nYnUgowGPHOz1ZnWVKe8t6nfLjZKIdQyiBvQl6NLWM40Y_VIXjQoeMaADVSPB0xRrv23hUajvPOVyhMobDy7UhTZgZvXMIUVIDu_suazvvKgFcDh83x-c6injq1gANyvJr5/s320/DSCF1526.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completely disassembled unit.</td></tr>
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As the motor is running, engine oil enters the sender and pushes against a rubber diaphragm in turn forces a spring loaded plunger to move a sweeper arm across a wire wound variable 80 - 0 ohm resistor. Oil pressure causes the 80 ohm resistor to decrease in value thus the oil gauge needle will move towards the right.<br />
It is possible to refurbish these sender units by carefully cutting off the canister body midway around with a hack saw ( I've destroyed my sender to remove all the parts of the unit ) This will expose the internal circuitry for cleaning and damage. Oil inside the canister is an indication of a ruptured diaphram at that point the unit is unserviceable.<br />
Carefully clean the sweeper contact, wire wound resistor and arm contact to the threaded stud. Connnect an ohm meter across the resistor, it should read approx. 80 ohms. With the ohm meter still attached across the resistor, move the plunger arm slowly so that the sweeper moves across the resistor. Resistance will decrease from 80 ohms to approx. 0 ohms without hesitation. Thus 80 ohms = 0 psi and 0 ohms = 80 psi.<br />
Realistically the resistor should read around the 40 ohms for 40 psi. as the car is running at speed. If it works properly, the canister can be soldered back on the unit with 50/50 type solder. Don't use a torch.<br />
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Replacement senders:<br />
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Ford/Lincoln/Mercury 1960 - 80 canister senders 1/8" x 27 NPT ( for a 1/4" hole size ) approx. 80-90 psi<br />
with a terminal button is close enough and should work. <br />
<br />Snyders English Ford Partshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05892884730902556572noreply@blogger.com1