Friday, May 30, 2014

204E Fuel Sender Units

EnFo p/n: 204E-9275A/B/C

For:    '59-67 Anglia 105E sedan
          '61-64 Consul Capri / Classic
          '56-62 Zodiac / Zephyr / Consul sedan.

Unit Manufactures / Type:   Float Sender Unit. Resistive wire wound Bobbin, Single Sweep.
    - Smiths T.F. 1000/23 WET   EnFo p/n: 204E-9275A
    - AC  7228816 12V D5         EnFo p/n: 204E-9275B
Replaced by 204E-9275C. I assume that T.F. means mounted on top of fuel tank-WET, submerged.
AC/Smiths units are interchangeable.

Rebuilt 204E Fuel Sender Unit
Unit Manufacture specs:    Resistive range: 12-22 Ohms to 240-290 Ohms (depending on the # of wire turns on bobbin and condition of the unit)                              
Wire type: Nichrome #34 .006 diameter. approx. 20 Ohms per foot non-magnetic.
Wire length: 14 ft. 200 turns.

Typical failures: Intermittent, corrosion, worn or damaged, and unit not grounded. Check that the unit is properly grounded to the body (there should be a ground wire from the sender unit mounting screw to the body/chassis) before removing the unit.


Removal:  Remove unit from fuel tank. Remove the access plate from the unit (two screws or two tabs) Corroded/stuck units should be soaked in a cleaning solution ( DO NOT SAND-BLAST). Discard units with excessive corrosion on the aluminum body that has worn thru. Units in decent shape with moveable parts are more desirable. Check the float for small holes or fuel inside. Repair holes with silver solder and flux, if necessary.

Corroded Unit but bobbin in good shape
Condition: Check the condition of the wire-wound resistor, sweeper contact, wire connection to the terminal. Clean the face surface of the wire-wound resistor with a cleaning solution/acid brush.

Connect a digital Ohm meter, one probe to the body of the unit the other probe to the spade connector. Move the float arm slowly from one end to the other end. A steady reading of approximately 12 ohms to approximately 290 ohms.

Corroded terminals should be removed by drilling out the rivet on the top connector side. Replace worn parts. Re-attach with a 1/8" x 5/8" long aluminum pop rivet.

Re-Winding Resistors: This procedure will require a NZ-1 winding machine. NZ-1 has been modified  to accept a bobbin. It's nearly impossible to re-wind by hand. I will show you how I accomplished this.
NZ-1 Manual Winding Setup
                               
Mounted Bobbin wound with Kanthal
Arm removal with punch and hammer
Installing arm. Place arm in vise. Tap on sweeper stud.
Remove the arm/float assembly as shown (mark the position of the arm).
Remove the sweeper assembly (detach the braided copper ground strap, if there)
The bobbin is safety crimped in its guide. Carefully remove the safety tabs. Cut the wire to the terminal. Carefully remove the bobbin. You may have to move it back and forth until loose. Use WD-40 if needed. Remove the resistive wire. It may come off in sections. Total length 14'.

Alternative Resistive Wire:   Kanthal A1 #34 gauge (.006 diameter ) 21.1 ohms per foot. Magnetic.
Kanthal resistive wire: chromium, aluminum, Iron.

Nichrome and Kanthal cannot be soldered with a typical soldering iron, unless excessive heat was applied. So, wrap the end of the wire a couple of times around the interior terminal. Apply electrical solder to the terminal covering the wrapped wire completely with solder.

                             
Result:  165 turns on the bobbin and installed in the unit came to 22 ohms to 242 ohms.
I sprayed some EL601 Red Insulating Varnish on the coil but the fuel washed it off. So leaving the wire bare did not effect the resistive range. Also, I didn't attach a braided copper wire from the sweeper rod to casing ground as i figure that the cover plate notch should press against the top sweeper rod for grounding. Some units had the ground strap missing or broken in that case the unit still worked properly.
                               
                                  
                                 
                                 

Friday, August 23, 2013

Lucas Reproduction Distributor Rotors

Beware of Lucas reproduction rotors that have the troublesome rivets that holds down the brass contact to the plastic body. These are known to short circuit causing misfiring or complete ignition failure. There is insufficient insulation ( on some versions only 1/16" plastic material ) between the bottom of the rivet and distributor shaft.
The original Lucas rotors brass contact was recessed or molded into the plastic body which did not provide a rivet.
I cut a few rotors in half along side the rivet and found that the distance between the base of the rivet to the distributor shaft was only 1/16". In that case, high voltage ignitions would easily short circuit across to the distributor shaft. Most reproduction rotors do not have an inner spring clip and could fit loosely on the shaft causing it to wobble. This will make contact with the distributor cap contacts, assuming the shaft bushing is not worn.

There are quality reproduction rotors available i.e. http://www.distributordoctor.com/red-rotor-arms.html

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Crankcase Ventilation Separators

Positive Crankcase Ventilation before 1963 was through a draft tube.

The following year a separator to remove the engine oil and return the blow-by gases back into the engine via a PCV valve.

Between 1964-1967, there are two types of separators and matching fuel pumps  for the Kent series engines:
1) In/out baffled internal drain separator and AC fuel pump with non-drain tube.
2) In/out baffled separator with external oil drain outlet and AC fuel pump with oil drain tube.

Internal drain separator can be used for either AC fuel pump. Just plug the AC pump drain tube.
External drain separator is only used with an AC pump with a drain tube. Do not plug the separator drain tube when installing a different fuel pump. This will fill the separator with engine oil thus making it dysfunctional.


An excellent explanation on Engine-Breather Systems by Burton: http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/engine-breather-system.html

Monday, March 4, 2013

Speedometer Cable Housing - Plastic End Fittings

Some English Ford speedometer housing cables have plastic end fittings which attach to the transmission by a metal fork. The plastic fittings will eventually warp by heat and pressure from the attachment fork.
( Replace speedometer cable assembly if the plastic fitting is loose around the cable housing )

Warped plastic ends will cause oil leaks even silicon sealant won't solve the leaking problem.
To resolve this defect without replacing the housing. Use a 1/16" thick washer 1  3/16" x 5/8" cut off a 3/8"
section so it would slip past the housing. Apply a bit of sealant to the plastic fitting face.  Place the washer
cut out end up, against the plastic fitting and tighten the attachment fork.

Sunday, January 6, 2013

Anglia 105E Steering Box Top Plate re-inforcement

105E steering boxes, in general, are relatively reliable units and will function properly for years as long as they are kept topped with the correct oil.
Occasionally, the steering box top plate works itself loose due to worn suspension components, unbalanced wheels, or vibration.  Requiring re-tightening of the four top plate bolts. Eventually, the top plate will work loose again causing play in the steering box and steering wheel shimmy around 40 mph. A loose top plate will put stress on the internal components of the steering box.

A permanent solution to this problem would be to weld two 1/8" thick "L" brackets to the top plate and body, as shown.
Remove the top plate ( collect the spilled oil ). Produce two similar "L" shaped brackets. Mount them symmetrically together, clamp, and drill two holes for two 1/4" size head bolts and nuts. Install and tighten. Weld one bracket to the top plate, as shown in the picture. Re-install the top plate to the s/box. Tighten the four top plate bolts. Tap weld the bracket to the body. Remove the 1/4" bolts from the brackets. Remove the top plate. Cover the exposed steering box with a rag and weld the bracket to the body. Apply a bit of Locktite to the top plate bolts threads and install the bolt locking plates if desired but now, not necessary anymore.

This modification especially benefits Anglias still using a steering box for rallying.









Friday, November 2, 2012

Magnetic Drain Plugs

Magnetic engine oil drain plugs were not an option on any English Ford vehicle, to at least, up to the 1970's.
I've seen a few automatic transmissions that had a prolonged small iron magnet pressed into a drain plug but these are very weak compared to a new style magnet.

Attach a "rare earth magnet" ( Neodymium-Iron-Boron ) size: 3/8 x 1/8 to the threaded end of a drain plug by either drilling a 3/8" hole, approx. 1/8" deep for an Anglia 105E  3/4" x 24 plug type or epoxy to the end of a 1/2" x 20 plug i.e. Cortina MK2.

Once installed, this will allow you to observe any ferrous metal particles in the engine oil after an oil change.
Too much metal attached to the magnetic may indicate a problem with i.e. the camshaft lobes.

Manual transmissions have a cup-style drain plug to trap metal particles which are mostly syncro ring brass particles. By the way, the flat-end fill plug should not be installed as a drain plug.
Add a "rare earth magnet" or remove the old iron magnet on the drain plug for an Automatic Transmission.
Some of these transmissions had a iron slug magnet welded to the inner bottom of the pan which should be left in place.

Monday, October 15, 2012

Positive-Ground Systems.

The transition to negative ground came around the mid-1950's for American cars, 1967 for English Fords and around 1971 for all other English cars. The preference to use - or + ground didn't matter much. The standardization to negative ground in the Auto industry was only because of the introduction of negative ground electronic gadgets.

If you already converted the car from + to - ground, do not use the original Lucas coil marked CB and SW even though you reversed the two wires on the coil. Purchase a new coil made for negative ground systems. It should read + on one side and - on the other side of the coil.

Here's why:

Primary & Secondary Circuits on a CB / SW positive ground Coil:

When the engine is running, each time the points open, the current stops flowing and the magnetic field collapses around the primary. The secondary has approximately, 20,000 turns of fine wire ( 100 to 1 wire wound ratio secondary to primary ). The collapsing magnetic field will induce a voltage of + 22,000 volts at the core for the spark plugs.
Auto-Transformer action: In a coil the secondary and primary windings are in series.  If the wires to CB and SW were reversed then the current will flow in the opposite direction and will defeat the purpose of an auto-transformer effect. The arc-over voltage output of the coil would be approximately 10% less . It is spark current that ignites gasoline. Obviously, if you don't achieve arc-over voltage, no spark current will flow.
In other words, there is approximately 10% reduction of voltage required to jump a spark plug gap. If the car is converted to a negative ground and a negative ground coil isn't installed then the 10% voltage advantage is gone.