Metallifacture Jacks

Metallifacture Co. ( Nowadays Magal Metallifacture Ltd ) supplied a majority of Automotive manufactures i,e., English Ford, BMC, Jaguar, Aston Martin, with Jacks and Tool kits etc. Some Jacks are identical between car manufactures.

English Ford P/N:  xxxx- 17080 series Jacks:

Consul, Zephyr / Zodiac MK1  EOA-17080C ( High Lift Square Hole Side Entry Jacks )
- Tripod Crank Jack - Square Insert

Anglia / Prefect 100E  100E-17080 ( High Lift Square Hole Side Entry Jacks )
-Tripod Crank Jack - Square Insert

Anglia 105E / Prefect 107E, Cortina MK2  105E-204E-211E-69ZB-69BB-17080 ( High Lift 7/8" Hole Side Entry Jacks )
-Tripod / Inverted HD "T" ( Crank or Ratchet Handle) Jack

Cortina / Lotus  MK1 113E-120E-17080 ( dome pin entry )
-"Y" Type Jack ( Ratchet Handle )

Defective Jack Handles can be rebuilt. The Ratchet Latch Spring may break. Remove the rivets and separate the two halves. Replace the spring with a similar type or a snail spring as used in a generator brush spring. Re-assemble using pop rivets as pictured lower handle.

Any additional Jack information would be appreciated.

Canister Type Oil Pressure Senders

These senders are on the Cortina GT 10/64 > 9/66. Ford p/n : C5EH-9D290B or C9EH-9D290A. 
80 psi ( stamped near the brass base ).

Function:

The oil gauge has 5 volts applied from the voltage stabilizer to one terminal the other terminal connects to the sender which acts as a variable resistor to ground.

64-66 Cortina MK1 GT Oil Sender Unit

Canister plus spring loaded plunger base cut off to expose circuitry and diaphragm

Completely disassembled unit.

As the motor is running, engine oil enters the sender and pushes against a rubber diaphragm in turn forces a spring loaded plunger to move a sweeper arm across a wire wound variable 80 - 0 ohm resistor. Oil pressure causes the 80 ohm resistor to decrease in value thus the oil gauge needle will move towards the right.
It is possible to refurbish these sender units by carefully cutting off the canister body midway around with a hack saw ( I've destroyed my sender to remove all the parts of the unit ) This will expose the internal circuitry for cleaning and damage. Oil inside the canister is an indication of a ruptured diaphram at that point the unit is unserviceable.
Carefully clean the sweeper contact, wire wound resistor and arm contact to the threaded stud. Connnect an ohm meter across the resistor, it should read approx. 80 ohms. With the ohm meter still attached across the resistor, move the plunger arm slowly so that the sweeper moves across the resistor. Resistance will decrease from 80 ohms to approx. 0 ohms without hesitation. Thus 80 ohms = 0 psi and 0 ohms = 80 psi.
Realistically the resistor should read around the 40 ohms for 40 psi. as the car is running at speed. If it works properly, the canister can be soldered back on the unit with 50/50 type solder. Don't use a torch.

Replacement senders:

Ford/Lincoln/Mercury 1960 - 80 canister senders 1/8" x 27 NPT ( for a 1/4" hole size ) approx. 80-90 psi
with a terminal button is close enough and should work.

Rotary Star Door Latches

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

The rotary star mechanisms should be in good shape before starting this project. This work can be carried out on other similar English Ford latches.

Figure 4

Figure 5

Figure 1 is a worn, early Anglia 105E door latch.
After removing the arm spring, drill out the lever arm stud rivet just enough so that the washer will come off. Remove the two levers and spring washer. Turn over the latch and file down flush the stud rivet which now can be pulled out of the latch base plate.




Figure 4.  I've removed the arm from the worn lever on the left and welded it to the fabricated lever on the right. It was easier to make a new lever from the same material and thickness and cut off the lever arm off near the base of the worn lever with a hack saw and weld it to the new lever. Take care to attach the arm at the same angle and height as the original part.





Figure 5.  I chose to install a shoulder bolt and flush nut insert ( fig. 3 ) to hold the levers in place. Added epoxy on the bolt threads and filed down the nut a bit to make it more flush. The nut should be just tight enough to allow the levers to move freely by the return spring.
Another way would be to weld the thread of the shoulder bolt to the base and then file off excess weld.
  
Oil the star rotary bushing and movement levers and grease the lever wheel. Brush a coat of grease on the whole inside latch to prevent rust. If the spring is broken replace it with a similar tension spring. Squeeze the end of the springs to prevent the spring from coming loose.


Figure 2 is a rebuilt door latch.

Disclaimer:  This information is only meant for educational purposes.

Dove Tail Door Striker Plates

" A door is only as good as it's lock". Strike plates or door strikes are the protective metal plates installed in the door jam that receives the latch or lock tongue when the door is closed. The ones in issue are the dove tail striker plates incorporating an aggressive toothed pattern on the bottom of the plate. This type is used on the Anglia 105E/123E, Consul, Zephyr, Zodiac and more. As English Fords from the 50's/60's continue to age, I'm seeing striker plate teeth wearing to a point of  safety concern. In those conditions the door needs to be slammed hard to close properly. In that case a new replacement is necessary. I've contacted many sources regarding the availability for new plates with no avail. So I decided to give it a try and repair the most promising plates. Note: To start with,  door latches need to be in good condition


Figure 1 and 3 plates are in good enough condition for repair. Figure 2 cannot be used for this type of repair. These are worn beyond a point of safety and the door will be in danger of flying open whilst the car is being driven at speed.

I've had success with using J-B weld epoxy. After rough sanding the worn area apply epoxy to plates to Fig 1 and Fig 3. Fill the cavity over flush in Fig 6. After the epoxy is dry file down until flush Fig 7. The epoxy filling is still holding to the plate tooth pattern on my Anglia 124E after a few months with little wear showing at the same time preventing any further wear on the tooth pattern. The filing may one day fall off but I'll just re-apply a new batch.

The Anglia 105E/123E sedan came with two styles of striker plates Fig 8: early type < 10/1962 and Fig 3 later type > 10/1962. Estate later > 6/1963. Fig. 4 are the early types. The L/H plate tooth pattern are solid while the R/H has a hollow front tooth. Fig 5 is the later type all hollow tooth. Be aware of these hollow tooth plates esp. if worn completely through the casting. REPLACE THEM.

Fig 8 are restored early type striker plates with new bumper rubber. Be sure that the door lock striker safety plate is installed p/n: E2093-AA-1 on both early and later striker plates.

Recommended Epoxy

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Figure 5

Figure 6

Figure 7

Figure 8

Refurbishing Steel Master Cylinder Reservoir Caps

I've had success refurbishing rusted English Ford steel reservoir caps with solder.

Refurbished Reservoir Cap

These should be sand blasted first to get rid of the rust and to observe the condition is void of any major dents and holes. It also preps the cap for solder.

Use a propane torch and 50/50 solder ( lead/tin ) used for repairing copper radiators.

Clean the steel cap with acid flux. Heat the cap hot enough so solder will flow once it's touched to the cap. Careful not to over heat the cap. Once the cap is covered completely with a thin coat of solder including the threads but not the inside, re-heat the cap and wipe with a cotton cloth to smooth or a small tooth brush size wire brush. Then use a bit of metal polish. It may take a bit of practice but the outcome is worthwhile.  This will not prevent the cap from rusting so it would help to wipe it with WD-40 once a month or sooner.  Make sure the vent hole is still open.

Aluminum caps that incorporate an inner steel insert can be cleaned with a small metal brush to remove the rust and wiped clean with a cotton cloth and a bit of WD-40.

Rear Brake Shoe Spacers

There should be a rear brake shoe spacer for the Cortina/Lotus/Corsair MK1 GT ( 10/65>) , all Cortina MK2 and EnFos of that era that incorp. the auto. adj. wheel for the b/shoes. Without it the handbrake comes out too far even after tightening the H/brake cable also the lever won't turn the auto. adj. wheel properly. Sometimes these spacers were not reinstalled after replacing the shoes. P/N: DORY-2028A for the Cortina MK2. and P/N: 2925E-2K466A for the Cortina/Lotus/Corsair (10/65>) which is not listed in the parts book. I've reproduced spacers from the original part if anyone has them missing.

English Ford Neoprene Support Straps

Reproduced neoprene support straps for English Ford exhaust systems and rear axle housing handbrake cables are now available in the parts section.
They are 1/4" neoprene re-inforced with 4 sheets of heavy duty cloth much more durable than OEM straps.
Original EnFo straps were 1/4" rubber re-inforced matting which would weaken and tear after a couple of years.
These can be purchased in straps only or with original attached hardware using screw and lock nuts instead of rivets. Items with attached hardware are sold on exchange only.

Handbrake Rear Axle Link Support Straps/or with attachments for : Anglia 105E/123E, Prefect 107E, Cortina MK1 ( includes Lotus ).

Exhaust System Support Straps/or with attachments for : Anglia 105E/123E, Prefect 107E, Cortina MK1 ( includes Lotus ), Zodiac, Zephyr,Consul MK2.