Lucas Reproduction Distributor Rotors

Beware of Lucas reproduction rotors that have the troublesome rivets that holds down the brass contact to the plastic body. These are known to short circuit causing misfiring or complete ignition failure. There is insufficient insulation ( on some versions only 1/16" plastic material ) between the bottom of the rivet and distributor shaft.
The original Lucas rotors brass contact was recessed or molded into the plastic body which did not provide a rivet.
I cut a few rotors in half along side the rivet and found that the distance between the base of the rivet to the distributor shaft was only 1/16". In that case, high voltage ignitions would easily short circuit across to the distributor shaft. Most reproduction rotors do not have an inner spring clip and could fit loosely on the shaft causing it to wobble. This will make contact with the distributor cap contacts, assuming the shaft bushing is not worn.

There are quality reproduction rotors available i.e. http://www.distributordoctor.com/red-rotor-arms.html

Crankcase Ventilation Separators

Positive Crankcase Ventilation before 1963 was through a draft tube.

The following year a separator to remove the engine oil and return the blow-by gases back into the engine via a PCV valve.

Between 1964-1967, there are two types of separators and matching fuel pumps  for the Kent series engines:
1) In/out baffled internal drain separator and AC fuel pump with non-drain tube.
2) In/out baffled separator with external oil drain outlet and AC fuel pump with oil drain tube.

Internal drain separator can be used for either AC fuel pump. Just plug the AC pump drain tube.
External drain separator is only used with an AC pump with a drain tube. Do not plug the separator drain tube when installing a different fuel pump. This will fill the separator with engine oil thus making it dysfunctional.

An excellent explanation on Engine-Breather Systems by Burton: http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/engine-breather-system.html

Installing aftermarket  Aluminum Valve Covers.

All gasoline engines need a positive crankcase ventilation ( pressure will find it's way out ) which sucks fresh air through a type of breather system ( vented oil cap, vent tube, or filter attachment on the valve cover )
Most aftermarket aluminum valve covers are sealed with only a small .025 size vent hole on the oil cap. That is not sufficient to allow enough air into the engine. One option would be to drill a hole at the blank rear area of the cover and attach a threaded tube with a small filter.

Aftermarket English Ford Valve Cover

Speedometer Cable Housing - Plastic End Fittings

Some English Ford speedometer housing cables have plastic end fittings which attach to the transmission by a metal fork. The plastic fittings will eventually warp by heat and pressure from the attachment fork.
( Replace speedometer cable assembly if the plastic fitting is loose around the cable housing )

Warped plastic ends will cause oil leaks even silicon sealant won't solve the leaking problem.
To resolve this defect without replacing the housing. Use a 1/16" thick washer 1  3/16" x 5/8" cut off a 3/8"
section so it would slip past the housing. Apply a bit of sealant to the plastic fitting face.  Place the washer

cut out end up, against the plastic fitting and tighten the attachment fork.

Anglia 105E Steering Box Top Plate re-inforcement

105E steering boxes, in general, are relatively reliable units and will function properly for years as long as they are kept topped with the correct oil.
Occasionally, the steering box top plate works itself loose due to worn suspension components, unbalanced wheels, or vibration.  Requiring re-tightening of the four top plate bolts. Eventually, the top plate will work loose again causing play in the steering box and steering wheel shimmy around 40 mph. A loose top plate will put stress on the internal components of the steering box.

A permanent solution to this problem would be to weld two 1/8" thick "L" brackets to the top plate and body, as shown.
Remove the top plate ( collect the spilled oil ). Produce two similar "L" shaped brackets. Mount them symmetrically together, clamp, and drill two holes for two 1/4" size head bolts and nuts. Install and tighten. Weld one bracket to the top plate, as shown in the picture. Re-install the top plate to the s/box. Tighten the four top plate bolts. Tap weld the bracket to the body. Remove the 1/4" bolts from the brackets. Remove the top plate. Cover the exposed steering box with a rag and weld the bracket to the body. Apply a bit of Locktite to the top plate bolts threads and install the bolt locking plates if desired but now, not necessary anymore.

This modification especially benefits Anglias still using a steering box for rallying.