Three types of dipsticks for the Kent series front bowl oil pan. They should have the part number stamped on the end of the dipstick.
Anglia 105E/123E, Prefect 107E, Capri 109E, Cortina 1200.
P/N: 105E-6752 ( 997 / 1198 / 1340 engines )
Length: 17" to 19"
Full mark to center stop: 9.5"
Note: Error in Anglia 105E parts book: listed 105E-6752 as 105E-6752B
Cortina MK1/2 1500, Capri 116E 1500.
P/N: 105E-6752B ( 1500 pre-crossflow )
Length: 18.5"
Full mark to center stop 9"
Cortina MK2 1600.
P/N: 2737E-6752A or DORY-6750B.
Length: 20.5"
Full mark to center stop: 9.5"
Note: 105E-6752 will interchange with DORY-6750B
Timing cover
P/N: 105E-6059B EnFo and DORY-6019A FoMoCo. Interchange.
Note: Only difference is the tube boss is slightly beefier on the later FoMoCo cover.
Dipstick tube
P/N: 105E-6754 or DORY-6754A
Tube length varies: 3.5" to 4"
Tube length inserted into timing cover: 3"
Dipstick notches and tubes wear out, in some cases, nearly 1/8" worn off the dipstick notch.
Causing an inaccurate oil quantity reading on the dipstick. A way around this is to apply 3/8" thin walled shrink tube around the notch. Cut length 1" and adjust 1/4"-1/2" below the notch.
Note: Will also help seal the dipstick tube preventing blow by from a worn engine.
Showing posts with label capri. Show all posts
Showing posts with label capri. Show all posts
Thursday, June 25, 2015
Sunday, November 30, 2014
Vented and Non-Vented Gas Caps
There are two types of fuel tank caps that are available: vented and non-vented.
A non-vented cap will cause fuel feed problems if your fuel tank is not vented. So you must use a vented gas cap, otherwise it will put a strain on the fuel pump, particularly compact solid state electric fuel pumps will fail in no time. Vented caps let in air to take up the used fuel and relieve internal pressure build up in non-vented tanks. Use the correct cap for your particular model.
Vented systems are ones that vent fuel fumes to the outside air thru either a vented cap or vented tank.
Modern closed systems are ones that reuse the vapors that fuels put off by recirculating it back into the fuel system by ways of an inline purge valve, or a type of a carbon canister system, or any other means in a closed system thru an internal fuel vent. In 1970, Cortina MK2 in North America came with non-vented caps for a closed evaporative emission system.
Below is a list of English Ford vented and non-vented caps:
100E series: Non-vented tank. Vented caps: EOA-9030 or Locking cap: E493A-9030.
105E series: Non-vented tank. Vented caps: 105E-9030A or Locking cap: 105E-9030
105E Estate: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 400E-9030A or Locking cap: 400E-9030B
307E series: Non-vented tank. Vented cap : 307E-9030.
109E Capri / Classic Consul. Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 204E-9030A or Locking cap: 204E-9030B
EOTA / ETTOA: Non-vented tank. Vented caps: EOA-9030 or Locking cap E493-9030.
204E / 206E: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 204E-9030A or Locking cap: 204E-9030B.
211E / 213E: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 204E-9030A or Locking cap: 204E-9030B.
Cortina MK1 sedan: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 400E-9030A or Locking cap: 400E-9030B.
Cortina MK1 Estate: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 113E-9030A or Locking cap: 3014E-9030C
A non-vented cap will cause fuel feed problems if your fuel tank is not vented. So you must use a vented gas cap, otherwise it will put a strain on the fuel pump, particularly compact solid state electric fuel pumps will fail in no time. Vented caps let in air to take up the used fuel and relieve internal pressure build up in non-vented tanks. Use the correct cap for your particular model.
Vented systems are ones that vent fuel fumes to the outside air thru either a vented cap or vented tank.
Modern closed systems are ones that reuse the vapors that fuels put off by recirculating it back into the fuel system by ways of an inline purge valve, or a type of a carbon canister system, or any other means in a closed system thru an internal fuel vent. In 1970, Cortina MK2 in North America came with non-vented caps for a closed evaporative emission system.
Below is a list of English Ford vented and non-vented caps:
100E series: Non-vented tank. Vented caps: EOA-9030 or Locking cap: E493A-9030.
105E series: Non-vented tank. Vented caps: 105E-9030A or Locking cap: 105E-9030
105E Estate: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 400E-9030A or Locking cap: 400E-9030B
307E series: Non-vented tank. Vented cap : 307E-9030.
109E Capri / Classic Consul. Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 204E-9030A or Locking cap: 204E-9030B
EOTA / ETTOA: Non-vented tank. Vented caps: EOA-9030 or Locking cap E493-9030.
204E / 206E: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 204E-9030A or Locking cap: 204E-9030B.
211E / 213E: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 204E-9030A or Locking cap: 204E-9030B.
Cortina MK1 sedan: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 400E-9030A or Locking cap: 400E-9030B.
Cortina MK1 Estate: Vented tank. Non-vented caps: 113E-9030A or Locking cap: 3014E-9030C
Friday, May 30, 2014
204E Fuel Sender Units
EnFo p/n: 204E-9275A/B/C
For: '59-67 Anglia 105E sedan
'61-64 Consul Capri / Classic
'56-62 Zodiac / Zephyr / Consul sedan.
Unit Manufactures / Type: Float Sender Unit. Resistive wire wound Bobbin, Single Sweep.
- Smiths T.F. 1000/23 WET EnFo p/n: 204E-9275A
- AC 7228816 12V D5 EnFo p/n: 204E-9275B
Replaced by 204E-9275C. I assume that T.F. means mounted on top of fuel tank-WET, submerged.
AC/Smiths units are interchangeable.
Unit Manufacture specs: Resistive range: 12-22 Ohms to 240-290 Ohms (depending on the # of wire turns on bobbin and condition of the unit)
Wire type: Nichrome #34 .006 diameter. approx. 20 Ohms per foot non-magnetic.
Wire length: 14 ft. 200 turns.
Typical failures: Intermittent, corrosion, worn or damaged, and unit not grounded. Check that the unit is properly grounded to the body (there should be a ground wire from the sender unit mounting screw to the body/chassis) before removing the unit.
Removal: Remove unit from fuel tank. Remove the access plate from the unit (two screws or two tabs) Corroded/stuck units should be soaked in a cleaning solution ( DO NOT SAND-BLAST). Discard units with excessive corrosion on the aluminum body that has worn thru. Units in decent shape with moveable parts are more desirable. Check the float for small holes or fuel inside. Repair holes with silver solder and flux, if necessary.
Condition: Check the condition of the wire-wound resistor, sweeper contact, wire connection to the terminal. Clean the face surface of the wire-wound resistor with a cleaning solution/acid brush.
Connect a digital Ohm meter, one probe to the body of the unit the other probe to the spade connector. Move the float arm slowly from one end to the other end. A steady reading of approximately 12 ohms to approximately 290 ohms.
Corroded terminals should be removed by drilling out the rivet on the top connector side. Replace worn parts. Re-attach with a 1/8" x 5/8" long aluminum pop rivet.
Re-Winding Resistors: This procedure will require a NZ-1 winding machine. NZ-1 has been modified to accept a bobbin. It's nearly impossible to re-wind by hand. I will show you how I accomplished this.
Remove the arm/float assembly as shown (mark the position of the arm).
Remove the sweeper assembly (detach the braided copper ground strap, if there)
The bobbin is safety crimped in its guide. Carefully remove the safety tabs. Cut the wire to the terminal. Carefully remove the bobbin. You may have to move it back and forth until loose. Use WD-40 if needed. Remove the resistive wire. It may come off in sections. Total length 14'.
Alternative Resistive Wire: Kanthal A1 #34 gauge (.006 diameter ) 21.1 ohms per foot. Magnetic.
Kanthal resistive wire: chromium, aluminum, Iron.
Nichrome and Kanthal cannot be soldered with a typical soldering iron, unless excessive heat was applied. So, wrap the end of the wire a couple of times around the interior terminal. Apply electrical solder to the terminal covering the wrapped wire completely with solder.
Result: 165 turns on the bobbin and installed in the unit came to 22 ohms to 242 ohms.
I sprayed some EL601 Red Insulating Varnish on the coil but the fuel washed it off. So leaving the wire bare did not effect the resistive range. Also, I didn't attach a braided copper wire from the sweeper rod to casing ground as i figure that the cover plate notch should press against the top sweeper rod for grounding. Some units had the ground strap missing or broken in that case the unit still worked properly.
For: '59-67 Anglia 105E sedan
'61-64 Consul Capri / Classic
'56-62 Zodiac / Zephyr / Consul sedan.
Unit Manufactures / Type: Float Sender Unit. Resistive wire wound Bobbin, Single Sweep.
- Smiths T.F. 1000/23 WET EnFo p/n: 204E-9275A
- AC 7228816 12V D5 EnFo p/n: 204E-9275B
Replaced by 204E-9275C. I assume that T.F. means mounted on top of fuel tank-WET, submerged.
AC/Smiths units are interchangeable.
| Rebuilt 204E Fuel Sender Unit |
Wire type: Nichrome #34 .006 diameter. approx. 20 Ohms per foot non-magnetic.
Wire length: 14 ft. 200 turns.
Typical failures: Intermittent, corrosion, worn or damaged, and unit not grounded. Check that the unit is properly grounded to the body (there should be a ground wire from the sender unit mounting screw to the body/chassis) before removing the unit.
Removal: Remove unit from fuel tank. Remove the access plate from the unit (two screws or two tabs) Corroded/stuck units should be soaked in a cleaning solution ( DO NOT SAND-BLAST). Discard units with excessive corrosion on the aluminum body that has worn thru. Units in decent shape with moveable parts are more desirable. Check the float for small holes or fuel inside. Repair holes with silver solder and flux, if necessary.
| Corroded Unit but bobbin in good shape |
Connect a digital Ohm meter, one probe to the body of the unit the other probe to the spade connector. Move the float arm slowly from one end to the other end. A steady reading of approximately 12 ohms to approximately 290 ohms.
Corroded terminals should be removed by drilling out the rivet on the top connector side. Replace worn parts. Re-attach with a 1/8" x 5/8" long aluminum pop rivet.
Re-Winding Resistors: This procedure will require a NZ-1 winding machine. NZ-1 has been modified to accept a bobbin. It's nearly impossible to re-wind by hand. I will show you how I accomplished this.
| NZ-1 Manual Winding Setup |
| Mounted Bobbin wound with Kanthal |
| Arm removal with punch and hammer |
| Installing arm. Place arm in vise. Tap on sweeper stud. |
Remove the sweeper assembly (detach the braided copper ground strap, if there)
The bobbin is safety crimped in its guide. Carefully remove the safety tabs. Cut the wire to the terminal. Carefully remove the bobbin. You may have to move it back and forth until loose. Use WD-40 if needed. Remove the resistive wire. It may come off in sections. Total length 14'.
Alternative Resistive Wire: Kanthal A1 #34 gauge (.006 diameter ) 21.1 ohms per foot. Magnetic.
Kanthal resistive wire: chromium, aluminum, Iron.
Nichrome and Kanthal cannot be soldered with a typical soldering iron, unless excessive heat was applied. So, wrap the end of the wire a couple of times around the interior terminal. Apply electrical solder to the terminal covering the wrapped wire completely with solder.
Result: 165 turns on the bobbin and installed in the unit came to 22 ohms to 242 ohms.
I sprayed some EL601 Red Insulating Varnish on the coil but the fuel washed it off. So leaving the wire bare did not effect the resistive range. Also, I didn't attach a braided copper wire from the sweeper rod to casing ground as i figure that the cover plate notch should press against the top sweeper rod for grounding. Some units had the ground strap missing or broken in that case the unit still worked properly.
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
105E / 113E / 118E Transmission Back-up light Switch
This procedure is done with the transmission removed from the car and reverse selector rod removed from the transmission. It's not necessary to completely dismantle the transmission for this step.
Anglia 105E, Classic / Capri, and Cortina MK1 models have a manual activated toggle switch located on the lower end of the shelf as standard or optional equip. After 1967 the back-up light switch were mounted on top of the transmission casing activated by the reverse selector rod.
Any early transmission casings can easily be modified to an automatic back-up light system. By using a reverse switch from the Cortina MK2 or any universal 3/8 x 24 ( 1" long shaft length ) similar switch.
Drill a proper diameter hole directly above the reverse selector rod transmission casing, as pictured, for a 3/8" x 24 tap. Grind a 1.63" end section off the selector rod to create a 9/32" wide flat surface. Then grind a 5/16" long, approx. 20 degree slope at the end of the selector rod for a switch step-up.
Insert the rod in the casing and mount the back-up light switch. Adjust the switch so it will turn on-off ( an ohm meter will do ) while moving the reverse rod. Assemble the transmission for re-installation and mount the switch to the casing. Engage the stick shift in reverse to check activation. Leave the switch installed as it will not interfere with transmission installation.
Saturday, November 5, 2011
1500 GT Inlet Manifold Drain Pipe
On the Cortina/Capri 1500 GT there is a 2-3mm hole at the base of the inlet manifold. Attached is a 7" extension tube ( p/n: 116E-9K272 ). Usually these pipes break off. The whole point of a drain pipe was to prevent a fire when the carb float valve sticks open ( otherwise the gas will drip onto the hot exhaust manifold without a tube ). The only time that happens is when the brass float has a pin hole preventing the float to rise or dirt is lodged between the needle/valve. The engine won't run anyway in that condition and draining excess fuel running down the side of the engine block doesn't make much sense.
The drain pipe or just the hole will cause engine hesitation and should be blocked off.
The drain pipe or just the hole will cause engine hesitation and should be blocked off.
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